Help again.

i know i havent been on here in a while but i got a new truck and started modding it like crazy. i had this problem a bit ago but it cam back. when i hit the start button the solenoid just clicks. before i put a screw driver in between the solenoid prongs tried to turn over ever since then it started working, so i went out and got a new battery(maintenance free) and tried again. again i get the click. i open up the starer to look/clean it up and it looks ok. i opened up the solenoid and woops i broke the wires. got a new one put on and same thing, just clicks. i got a used starter to see if that was the problem but its not. it still wont start and just clicks. its like its laughing at me. PLEASE HELP. i want to ride her this season.

This is a truck? Sounds like a ground problem to me. Check the bat cables to the chassis or engine to be sure they are clean. If the connections are corroded, dip them in a solution of water and baking soda and sand them clean. Check the connections to the starter the same way. Ground connections that have been tight for years can get corroded inside, and also seep in grease that kills the connection.

Uhm... Are we speaking of the truck or the KZ750? :S

im sorry, this is for my kz750 i see how that got confusing. but i was saying that my bike was neglected cause of my recent truck purchase. so again its for my kaw 750 thank you

ok so i feel like a real dumb @$$ i went out side and checked the ground. it was covered in a black carbon looking material. i cleaned the part of the screw that touches the cable and then i cleaned the cable connector itself. after i reinstalled it and press the start button viola! it tried to start. it didnt start cause i dont have the tank on the bike and all the gas it out of the system. now all i have to do is get the rust out of the tank and get it going.


thank you all

There ya go! Don't feel too bad. Such connections are pretty easily ignored by the best of us!

thanks again for the help. i wish i would of checked this before i went out and spent the money on the battery and solenoid. buts its good to have spare parts around just in case.

Print and keep this handy:

Starter Solenoid Checkout

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm
B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm

10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.