KZ 900/1000 Rotor

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13 Mar 2010 14:40 #353125 by kenskz1000
KZ 900/1000 Rotor was created by kenskz1000
Is it possible for a rotor to fail? I have changed everything and bike still wont charge. Any suggestions or ideas

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13 Mar 2010 15:06 #353129 by otakar
Replied by otakar on topic KZ 900/1000 Rotor
Yes it is but the chances of the permanent magnets going bad are very unlikely. The stator can go bad. The Voltage regulator can go bad. The bridge rectifier can go bad and the battery can go bad. Even the plugs can go bad and wiring harness can go bad.

74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000

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13 Mar 2010 15:14 #353131 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic KZ 900/1000 Rotor
The A.C. Generator(Alternator) is made up of two basic parts: 1.The Rotor, containing magnets which is secured to the crankshaft, spinning around the wire windings of the 2.Stator or stationary part of the alternator.

Have you tried this test?

Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).

To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:

1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.

2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.

3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.

4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.

5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.

6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3,2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!

7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.

8. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.

9. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short.

10. The sprocket cover may have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator and possibly the left foot peg, and shifting lever will have to come off.


The website www.electrosport.com has a troubleshooting page for testing.

My shop manual for my 82 GPz1100 B2 lists using an OHMETER for resistance checking. Set the OHMETER to OHMS X 1 and test all three combinations of the output wires(1-2,2-3, and 1-3)in my case the reading should betwen 0.36 to 0.54 OHMS(yours may be different).

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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