KZ900/1000 Electrical Theory

Hey all....

I’m writing this for nothing more than to possibly help those that don’t have a well balanced knowledge/understanding of the KZ electrical system… As you will learn, it’s truly not that difficult once you understand the basic principles and applied theories of science associated with all electrical/electronics.

NOTE: This write up is not an electrical troubleshooting guide for that can be covered at a later time but it is designed for educating those who wish to learn a little and obtain a better understanding of what is occurring in their “Colored Spaghetti” wiring diagrams….

Let’s start with some basic electrical formulas and applied science then head into what it all means in our beloved KZ’s….

I’ll try and keep it basic as possible…

Here's the write up....
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=463&Itemid=108

Maybe will help some of you... Maybe not...

OMR

All, Loud is taking a look over and found a typo in the formulas... Ooops my bad! Like a dumb ass, didn;t bring the word doc to correct till Monday... Sorry but should be good just the same to get the theory to ya...


Watt = V(squared) / R not V (squared) * R as depicted... DOH!

Should have just used Ugly's cover....:blush:

OMR,

Very good contribution! Nice diagram editing.

Good tie-in to on-going discussions including the Coil Repowering Mod. Well done.

Thanks for your efforts.

Best of success,
Bill

Old Man Rock wrote:

All, Loud is taking a look over and found a typo in the formulas... Ooops my bad! Like a dumb ass, didn;t bring the word doc to correct till Monday... Sorry but should be good just the same to get the theory to ya...


Watt = V(squared) / R not V (squared) * R as depicted... DOH!

Should have just used Ugly's cover....:blush:

hey dave,
have had this book for years....great reference book...if it doesnt have it , you dont need to know it...i used to get a lot of goodies being the only guy in the receiving dept of a big plastic film manufacturing company...fluke,klein, etc.....

Hey Bill,

Thanks and your welcome...

You know whats interesting, the more I research into this mod that was accomplished what, 30 years ago... It seems in theory & logical to me anyways that this may have been due to the following...

Due to carb technologies, resources such as Dyno's, computers, oxygen sensing systems etc... they couldn't dial in the jetting as can be accomplished in today's resources...

Even with a good electrical system (1970 era conductors, switches, charging system, ignition system such as points & condensers etc...), the added 200-300 milli volts they may have been able to gain by direct feed off the battery bought them that little added voltage to reduce the spark plug carbon build ups...

Now let's keep in mind, not changing my mind on this matter mind you... :laugh: for as just mentioned, already have a good system and not 2-3 volt voltage drop somewhere... :pinch: but it would make sense in some mentioned few that have had success in the mod where they didn't have other such electrical failures.

If the above holds true, then fine tuning and jetting would add to this dilemma or could possibly be the route of the problem... No?

:pinch:... I can hear it now... "Now wait a damn minute OMR"....

Bet you guys didn't see that coming did ya.... :whistle: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

OMR, now the tale of the little mod that could.

Once upon a time, this forum was awash in questions about black, dry, sooty plugs, poor starting, etc. They wanted to solve this with carb. tuning and re-jetting. A member, WG, would get carbs, clean/calibrate them, return them and some would still have plug symptoms... this was a bad business model. WG stated telling them to get their darn electricals in order first (including Coil mod). For some/many that solved the symptom... no need to send for re-jetting in many cases. OK, maybe a little air screw tweaking.

Many rode happily ever after.

WG might remember it differently but I still like my version best. :blink: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Best of success,
Bill

PS
IMHO, more truth than fiction in the above.
Bill

if youve got electrical shorts/low voltage throughout system id suggest fixing the problem rather than just hiding it with a relay if you want to be really simple about it just wire your ignition hot from the ignition switch to a pushbutton between the gauges or wherever you want,eliminate all kinds of wiring without adding a relay. :woohoo:

"ignition hot from the ignition switch to a pushbutton between the gauges or wherever you want,eliminate all kinds of wiring without adding a relay"....

Now this is ONLY if you have good electrical connections/power throughout your system and your trying to eliminate any voltage drops (.3 to .5Vdc) via the ignition switch/emergency switch , poor connections etc...

As in my KZ, it's the same with or without any bypassing where I have the same voltage at my coils but I do it for another reasons... Theft Prevention!

Due to my conversion, the ignition switch is easily accessible on the upper triple tree and as can be reviewed in the simplified drawing in the pdf, snip and contact a couple of conductors and this old girl would fire up! :ohmy:

Truly, if someone with a little electrical knowledge, my beloved would be gone within 1 minute in time... Actually ~ 20 seconds and she would be running... :blush:

Run an inline rubber booted (moisture protected) 20amp fuse holder to (+) terminal to a 20amp toggle on/off switch feed directly to coils... My toggle switch is located under the seat!...

With that in mind, in trying to hot wire my girl, sure lights come on, EI plate receives battery Vdc but the coils sure as hell don't no matter what... They'd have to rip that seat apart to even get that tank off never mind to get at the toggle switch located under the seat....

In any case, as mentioned in other post in this subject matter, bypassing for a couple hundred milli volts through a switch (doesn't require dc current to activate), sure why not but recommended when your dropping 2-5 volts somewhere, naw find and fix the real problem for your old girl deserves that...

Or as I'm finding out in my case of carbon plugs, keep in mind I have the same battery voltage either way at my coils where the real culprit is in my jetting which as of last posting am real damn close...

Once a little warmer may drop to needle clip position 3 from 4 but that's a slim maybe due to heat indexes here in AZ, rather stay a tad on the rich side to help cool the old girl....

Anyhoot, hope this can help some out... Again, if your happy with the mod then good for you rock on! For toher anal types as in myself, locate the source of your power problem/plug conditions...

im just thinking about simplified wiring,incase ya havent noticed on most of my projects i aint got no stinking wiring on handlebars! :laugh: as far as the kill switch goes wire it into clutch safety switch circuit and mount it under seat that way you cant start it even with the key if you cantfind the switch

Yup...

You know, until I really started diving into this, I just never truly realized how little is required to start and run these old KZ's...

Further breakdown as in for a drag bike for instance...
(+) to 20 amp fuse to toggle switch to coils/EI module.
For a 1/4 mile run, wouldn't even need the charging circuit... :blink: Hell, probably just run off the Dynamo thus save the weight of the battery...:S

For a bobber build...
(+) to 20 amp fuse to toggle switch to coils/EI module, rectifier/regulator, Headlight/brake light switch and feed back to charging circuit is all that would be required... Damn!