Fried electronics

So I was in a hurry before I left home this weekend and I was trying to get my friends 1978 KZ650 C2 with a 1977 650 B motor. It was in a barn that was definitely sub zero in temperature. The battery was probably dead too so I tied a rope around the steering head and tied the other end to the back of the prowler. I then had my little brother pull me while I dropped the clutch. It worked and the bike started. But after that I lost all the electronics. Lights, turn signals, everything. Except, the engine was still running. I had to leave immediately afterward so I never had time to check for anything being wrong.

Any idea what happened?? I'm thinking it had something to do with the battery being frozen?? What would you guys check first??

I'd get a new battery and try again. I've read that a dicharged battery will freeze ruining it for future use.

If the engine still runs, I'd check the fuses and electrical connectors for corrosion as these usually become intermittent.

Make sure the heavy duty cables going to the battery terminals and to the engine mounting bolt are clean and tight.

Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations

1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1” long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼” in diameter.

2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼” long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼” in diameter.

3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.

4. These fuses can fail internally but look good, only by removing them from the clip and electrically continuity checking with either a self powered test light, or a multimeter set on OHMS can they be determined to be in good shape.

5. A physical inspection of the metal end caps for tightness will tell you if the fuse is serviceable.

6. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade” style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.

7. The reduced sized “Mini” Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.

8. If the fuse and fuse holder overheat, it could soften or anneal the grip of the clip, it might require squeezing the clip to restore the tightness.

9. A list of where to purchase “Blade” style fuses and holders:
www.waytekwire.com
www.rallylights.com
www.delcity.net

Becker wrote:

So I was in a hurry before I left home this weekend and I was trying to get my friends 1978 KZ650 C2 with a 1977 650 B motor. It was in a barn that was definitely sub zero in temperature. The battery was probably dead too so I tied a rope around the steering head and tied the other end to the back of the prowler. I then had my little brother pull me while I dropped the clutch. It worked and the bike started. But after that I lost all the electronics. Lights, turn signals, everything. Except, the engine was still running. I had to leave immediately afterward so I never had time to check for anything being wrong.

Any idea what happened?? I'm thinking it had something to do with the battery being frozen?? What would you guys check first??

new battery.....

Running a bike or car electrical sytem with a bad battery attached can destroy many parts of the electrical system. The battery acts as a large capacitor to smooth the AC pulses coming from the alternator. A frozen or otherwise toasted battery has a high impedance and won't act like a capacitor and the electrical system will get hit with high voltage transient spikes.

I kick started mine one day on a bad battery (open cell) and took out half the electrical system....

If the battery is missing, or otherwise open circuit, every bulb will burn out within a few seconds if the engine is started.

learn somthing everyday.....

RonKZ650 wrote:

If the battery is missing, or otherwise open circuit, every bulb will burn out within a few seconds if the engine is started.

The bike is still running so that is a good sign. Put in a new battery check all your fuses. When you get it running again check to see if you have 14.4 volts to the battery with the rpm's at about 4000. That will let you know if the charging system took a hit.

I really hope I didn't fry it all. I'll try switching out the battery when I get home and see if it comes back. Fingers crossed.