coil problem?

Measure method the same, not sure about level spec. My 750 twin's spec is 4.5 - 6.5mm down from the edge shown (different carbs)

Okay, I got kinda sidetracked with work and school but I'll check and fix the float levels tomorrow morning and get back as far as my progress goes. Thanks for the images too, they're extremely helpful.

Oh, and how do you add a signature? I can't find it in my profile.

And...Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Works fine for the 1000. The spec in my manual is between 2 - 3 mm below the gasket overhang. Just like bills pic.

Fuel volumes are super important in carburetor operation!

Using the float measuring method is good to get a set close to spec. Then use the clear tube method to dial them all the same.

Cheers.

dastardize wrote:

...Oh, and how do you add a signature? I can't find it in my profile....

Go to "My Profile"

Under Forum Settings, click "My Profile Info"

Scroll down to bottom, where there's a box for signature.

Type whatever desired into the signature box.

Click "Submit"

---

The typed in material should now appear as a signature in all your posts, past, present and future.

And you may change it whenever desired, which is also retroactive to appear in your earlier posts as well.

Good Luck!

so the only thing i fixed was my signature, thanks

but my bike still doesn't wanna run right. so i replaced the valves, changed out the float from a known working carb, adjusted the float level using the clear tube method and the same problem persists. it runs fine for a few moments then starts to spit through the #2 carb, it'll keep doing it up until around 2.5 - 3k rpm then runs fine. another thing i figured out is that while it's spitting, if i loosen the drain screw and let gas flow out of it while it's running, the problem fixes itself and it starts to run fine. a little lean but fine.

i thought maybe it could be something with a valve or the engine, but then why would it fix by draining some gas from it?

Is fuel spitting from #2 overflow nipple (from bottom of float bowl) or spitting out the #2 pod?

If spitting fuel from pod, might have fuel contamination inside crankcase. Would sniff-test oil and examine its physical condition. If fuel contaminated, would change oil and filter, and not run engine again until the problem is corrected.

Thinking #2 float valve is still leaking for whatever reason, such as grit or crud in the interface between float needle and seat orifice, or improper float level setting, or leaking float, or sticking float, or improperly installed float (maybe upside down), or damaged float (bent out of alignment).

Reported symptoms also suggest clogged carb overflow circuit.

Good Luck!

I'd check to make sure the float needle isn't upside down first. Also, did you replace the float seat along with the float needle? If not you might not have a good seal between the needle and seat, which would allow fuel to keep flowing into your float bowl, overloading that carb, and causing the symptoms described.

One other thing to check is that your float isn't sticking in the body of the carb. If the float has ever been improperly adjusted (by bending the arms of the float instead of the adjustment tang) it might have gotten disfigured enough to snag up in the carb body and stick open, allowing fuel to dump in non-stop. I had a float that was giving me fits because of this on my first 77 (adjusted incorrectly before I had it, not my doing) and I ultimately had to replace the float because I could never get it right. Once I replaced that float I never had problems again.

dastardize wrote:

so the only thing i fixed was my signature, thanks

but my bike still doesn't want to run right. so i replaced the valves,

dastardize,

Just to be sure here... remember that the carb float bowl Needle Valve replacement kit is made up of 3 parts: Seat, valve and gasket.



If the gasket is missing or damaged or if the seat and valve are not a matched set then you may not be getting the shut-off action your carb needs.

To save a buck, you may want to swap the entire Needle Valve assembly from a carb that does not display this symptom before buying more parts.

Also, if you do not have a high quality inline gas filter in a 30 year old bike then you will have problems even with new Needle Valve assemblies... don't ask. :blush:

Best of success.
Bill

Perhaps the float tab (tang) is so far out of adjustment that the float at maximum height isn't pressing the float needle into the seat orifice.

This condition would allow continuous fuel entry into the float bowl.

Float operation must be sufficient to stop the flow before level reaches the overflow stage.

Thereafter, the clear tube test may be used incident to adjusting the tang to bring the level within specs.

All of this, including the clear tube testing, may be accomplished with the carbs on the workbench.

Good Luck!

so i'm finally out of school!!!! i started working on the bike again and this is what's happening. i replaced the whole valve assembly for all four carbs, checked and adjusted the float level to within specs, replaced the points and condensers, checked and fixed the timing (it was little off), oil and filter change, new plugs and although it's running much better than before it's still backfiring out of that same carb. however, it does it much much much much less than before.

i'm about ready to kick it over and light it on fire...i had someone tell me that because the engine sat for almost a month one the number two intake valve could be sticking, so i took off the valve cover and soaked it in marvel mystery oil for almost a week and rotated it by hand to see if i noticed anything out of the ordinary, but nothing. it all seems to be working fine, including the valves.

anyone else have any more ideas???

Jury-rig a fuel supply. with float bowl off, & fuel supply connected, finger your' float and verify fuel shut-off. The most common needle/seat/float failures are... Sticking needle,worn/damaged needle/seat, sticking float,float which is a sinker, float contacting float bowl/gasket. and one that beat me up.... a bit of deteriorated fuel line had traveled all the way to passage in carb body to head of seat...with fuel flow it protruded far enough to keep needle from seating (intermittantly) hope something here helps.luck G

U need to clean the pilot jet again and blow the passages out again. That done yet? take the carb off take all the bowl screws out and the the bowl off. Dump the gas out, look inside it for crap, put it back on the carb with one screw or have someone hold the bowl tight to the carb. Fill the carb with gas by pouring fuel down the tube until it stops at the top of the tube. If it keeps going down the valve didn't seal. Whenthe fuel stays at the top of the fuel fill line take the bowl off and PHYSICALLY look at the level if it's way high bend the float tang up some and do it again. And when a valve doesnt shut off, the gas can go either out the carb, or into the engine. That spark plug should be black if it's running over or running rich. If your working alone a vise works good to hold onto the carb by squeezing the bowl in it.