Starter Solenoid Checkout
Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:
1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).
2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.
3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.
4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.
5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.
6.Try again to start the bike.
7.If no luck, go to step #8
8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.
9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:
A.
www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm
B.
www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm
10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit.
11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.
12. The welding cable is sold by the foot ,so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.
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Over Running Starter Clutch Repair On the Older, Bigger 4’S
1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:
A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs (3).
C. New spring caps (3).
D. New rollers (3).
2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.
3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.
4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.
5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.
6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.
7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!
8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.
9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.
10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.
