ignition switch, broken wire

hello all!

Long time since I've been here, but I know where to look when I run into a problem

On my kz550b2 I have a broke wire connection right at the bottom of the ignition switch. There are 4 connections on the bottom of the switch and they're made up from what I believe are steel rivet like tings with a clamp like construction on it. Now the clamp is broken from the rivet, leaving very small steel bulb sticking out of the switch...this is where I have to reconnect the wire to.

Apparently all electricl current actually passes through the ignition switch, so a proper connection is required. I tried soldering the wire to the tiny bulb, but as the bulb is steel the solder wouldn't adhere to it.

Does anyone have any good idea to repair the ignition switch? I was thinking of drilling a 2mm hole into the steel buld, hoping it would be solid steel inside as well...or otherwise try to take the switch apart, but I doubt whether this is possible or not...

Any idea will be considered

Z1 Enterprises has a switch for $14.95. I would get a new switch before I would try to rig the existing one. There are some on ebay for up to $40.00 so I would go with Z1E. I need one to so I was doing some looking lastnight. 15 bucks is cheap insurance, if one lug broke there will be more to come. Good Luck

unfortunaely I can't find the b2 model. I guess this model is only sold in Europe, this might be why the model is not featured in the shop. I should look into the various ignition switches to find out if I can use one from an "a" model....guess this should work, but I'm not sure. My electrics are quite a bit "different" with the 2 phase alternator for example, that one seems to be quite rare too.

Or does anyone know by heart which models have the same ignition switches? Mine has 4 connections on the back...would have to take a look at home which color wires attach to it.

Possibly compare wiring diagrams for similarity of switch connections between a and b models?

For b2 wiring diagram, click here, then scroll down to and open the last item.

Click here first, then scroll down and open last item

Good Luck!

All of these models use the same ignition switch. These are all of the U.S. models for 1980 and 1981. Since we did not get the B models, they would not be included in the list, but there is a chance they might be the same as yours.

KZ550-A1 (1980)
KZ550-A2 (1981)
KZ550-C1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ550-C2 (LTD) (1981)
KZ550-D1 (GPz) (1981)

The part number for the switch is 27005-5014.

Chances are, the contacts in the switch are worn, so you probably want to forget about fixing the old switch.

The only problem with getting a new switch is that the new key won't work on the seat latch, so you'll have to carry two keys. In the past, I've had some luck at taking a new contact plate and wire plate from a new switch and grafting it onto an old switch assembly in order to keep the old keying the same.

1981 KZ550-B2 wiring diagram shows 5 wire ignition switch connections left to right as follows:

Brown - Blue - White - Red - Yellow


Brown (lights)

Blue (tail 1)

White (battery)

Red (tail 2)

Yellow (ignition)


These 5 wires go to a connector. The wires on the other side of the connector are the same colors except the blue wire from the ignition switch is blue/red on the other side of the connector.

Good Luck!

For some inexplicable reason, the A2 wiring diagram isn't downloading for me. :S

Edit -- got the on-site 1981 KZ550-A2 wiring diagram downloaded showing the same 5 wire colors and connections as the 1981 KZ550-B2. Believed consistent with info provided by loudlvx.

Good Luck!

I'm able to download the diagram all the way at the bottom of the 1981 Filebase listing (the link Patton posted above).(There also isn't a dedicated link for the 550B models).

It is a page from the FSM, which I have next to me. However, I'm not sure if that is what he has. He says he has a 2-phase alternator. I assume he means 2-wire (which is 1-phase) alternator, but the diagram shows a 3-phase for the 550b2 and a 1-phase for only the 400j2.

Either way, all of the diagrams for 1981 except the non-us/Canada C2 show the 5-wire ignition switch being the same electrically. (The non-US/Canada C2 diagram shows no way of lighting the tail light in the on-position, so I assume this is an error in the diagram, which would make all 1981 models the same.)

Have to admit I'm not 100% sure about the amount of wires on the switch...thought there were 4, but might turn out to be 5. I only have time to check on fridy, coz till then I'm too busy.

You're right about the alternator, it's a two wire and then obviously 1-phase. I found in the past that this is fairly rare as all other 550's and 750's I've encoutered feature 3-phase alternators.

I wouldn't mind having to use several different keys for different purposes. If you guys are right and this kind of ignition switch is not as rare as I feared it would be...it could be quite easy to find a second hand one somewhere.

For the connections...they seem to be working excellent!

I have a b2 wiring diagram featuring my 1-phase alternator and as far as I've encountered every other aspect of the wiring. I will compare that to different ones I see here. If it's different I will make a scan and upload it here.

Cheers!

If you must ride you can cut the wires after the connector and twist them together and use the plug as the key. This is a jackleg way to do it but will work until you figure out what you got. Its better than not riding but should only be done for extreme shaking from riding withdrawls.

Don't really have to ride still got my 750 Turbo to spare

81kz550b2 wrote:

Don't really have to ride still got my 750 Turbo to spare

Now that turbo is a great cure for riding withdrawls