ignition switch

RonKZ650 wrote:

The other end of the lights is ground, the other end of the horn is switched to ground through the horn button.

Anybody know why they switch the ground lead on the horn? It would be simpler if they ran a 12V line to the horn through the switch and just grounded the horn where it mounts. That would eliminate one wire. Car horns ground at the mount, I can't see the advantage to the extra wire?

I see no 'live ground' on these bikes, and in all my years in electronics I have never heard that term before. On the schematic for my own bike (KZ750H) the white wire from the 20amp fuse feeds the brown wire (among others) at the ignition switch. From there on, everything the brown wire feeds (horn included) works it's way back the yellow/black wire, which always leads back to battery ground, which also connects to the chassis.

I'd advise to practice caution when using the term live ground if rewiring. At best it could cause blown fuses, and at worse, harness fires!

Right. It's probably best to stick with normal naming conventions so everybody is on the same page.

on the back of the switch the terminals are marked TL1(x2), TL2, TL3, B, TR, HL & IG what i need to know is what color wires go to what terminal.

The filebase here at KZR has 3 diagrams listed under the kz650C3 entry. Here's a partial from one of them. At the bottom it has a chart for color versus terminal label. However, the labels don't seem to match the labels you have. You might not have the original switch, so it may come down to using an ohm-meter to figure out the wiring.

Here's the page with the diagrams:
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...w&gid=126&Itemid=108


Here's the partial diagram:

What color are the 7 wires in the harness going to the switch?

Since your labels don't match the ones on the factory chart, you should make your own chart with your own labels (TL1(x2), TL2, TL3, B, TR, HL & IG ), (and no color labels yet), and take an ohm meter and find what connections have continuity for each of the three positions (off on park). Then you can rearrange your chart to match the factory chart.

finaly got it sorted, wired it temperarily and all seems to work, (no blown fuses!) really appreciate all the help with this one, thanks guys.