Kz200 20 amp Main fuse shorting

blew the fuse, bike has been sitting for about a week and a half, unused, but covered. had it running, warming it up just about to take it for a ride, and it stalled. when i went to get it started again it would not go. the starter button was a little funky too, but still intact. I checked and saw that the main fuse was blown. jsut to see if it was a fluke, i put a piece of wire where the fuse should be, and it turned RED hot, and it was a pretty decent gauge, rated to 600 volts.
my question: what could it be?
i have checked the headlight area, no charred wires.
the coil and condenser are new, less than 100 miles on them.
perhaps it could still be the prob though.
any thoughts appreciated

-Joe

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationDon't see a KZR wiring diagram for 1978 KZ200.

The official Kawasaki FSMs usually contain one or more wiring diagrams'

If needed, here's one of several FSMs now on ebay, but before bidding would confirm with seller that it has the color wiring diagram.

Other members may have a better source, or know where there's a KZ200 wiring diagram here on KZR or somewhere else on-line.

Am guessing the 20 amp fuse is the largest fuse, and wired direct to the battery positive terminal.

Likely require tracing wiring from the fuse onward to locate the apparent short.

Good Luck!

I got this from a post Patton did some time ago, but it might help you in the troubleshooting:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!

Here is the most basic method I know:

1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare ware wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

Quote [ the starter button was a little funky too, but still intact]
Remove the rt.bar switch and check it out. the starter button can be changed.

well, i feel like a moron. white wire going into the headlight slightly cracked and shorting to the frame. all is well now. yay me!

Congrats, and thanks for reporting the fix!

Good Deal Bro.