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all of a sudden no start?
- freebyrd24
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The blinkers, running lights, high/lo indicator and others work. Any idea where to start, what may have happened?
Thanks!
- 1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD - Long term project
1075cc Kit - New Wiseco Pistons
Sold:
- 1978 kz650 SR, 4-1 Vance and Hines Full Exhaust, Dyna-S Ignition, Accel Coils and Wires
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- MFolks
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Fuse And Fuse Holder Designations
1. The older Kawasaki’s use a glass tubed fuse with the designation of AGX 1†long. Most good auto parts stores can get them for you. They are ¼†in diameter.
2. The more common AGC is 1 ¼†long and may not fit the smaller fuse clips. Again, ¼†in diameter.
3. To clean and polish the fuse clips, I use a cotton swab(Q- Tip) and some Brasso metal cleaner or Turtle Wax Chrome Polish. I suppose any good metal polish would work.
4. Most modern motorcycles are now using the automobile “Blade†style fuse with the designation of ATC or ATO.
5. The reduced sized “Mini†Blade style fuse holder uses the ATM size of fuses.
6. A list of where to purchase “Blade†style fuses and holders:
www.waytekwire.com
www.rallylights.com
www.delcity.net
(I got this from Patton on this website and embellished it)
The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!
Here is the most basic method I know:
1. Charge your battery and have it load tested if you can. The floating ball hydrometer can be used to check the specific gravity of the charged cells in the battery.
2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.
3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.
4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.
5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.
6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).
7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.
8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.
9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).
10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare ware wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.
11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.
12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- freebyrd24
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- 1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD - Long term project
1075cc Kit - New Wiseco Pistons
Sold:
- 1978 kz650 SR, 4-1 Vance and Hines Full Exhaust, Dyna-S Ignition, Accel Coils and Wires
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- OKC_Kent
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Oklahoma City, OK
78 KZ650 B2 82,000+ miles
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- freebyrd24
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- 1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD - Long term project
1075cc Kit - New Wiseco Pistons
Sold:
- 1978 kz650 SR, 4-1 Vance and Hines Full Exhaust, Dyna-S Ignition, Accel Coils and Wires
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- freebyrd24
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- 1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD - Long term project
1075cc Kit - New Wiseco Pistons
Sold:
- 1978 kz650 SR, 4-1 Vance and Hines Full Exhaust, Dyna-S Ignition, Accel Coils and Wires
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- freebyrd24
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- 1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD - Long term project
1075cc Kit - New Wiseco Pistons
Sold:
- 1978 kz650 SR, 4-1 Vance and Hines Full Exhaust, Dyna-S Ignition, Accel Coils and Wires
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- Old Man Rock
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Measure for +12Vdc from battery (+) to ignition switch input then keep going from there....
Look under the tank (over the head) for disconnections... Reasoning, to get at those carbs, the push pull throttle cables run under the tank as well, possibly something disconnected through the process when removing the carbs.
Keep plugging away in measurements with a DVM, you'll find it.
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- freebyrd24
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Also, where should I continue to look? should i just check for power from battery to all the mentioned accessories?
Thank you! I can't wait to start hopefully narrowing this down tonight.
- 1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD - Long term project
1075cc Kit - New Wiseco Pistons
Sold:
- 1978 kz650 SR, 4-1 Vance and Hines Full Exhaust, Dyna-S Ignition, Accel Coils and Wires
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- bountyhunter
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Check the ignition switch and the kill switches.yes i do have a volt meter and unfortunately i do have have continuity across the fuses. i was hoping it was just a fuse, but no such luck
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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