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1980 KZ750E No Spark
- Mr.E
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27 Aug 2009 13:45 #316781
by Mr.E
1980 KZ750E No Spark was created by Mr.E
I have just bought a brand new ... project bike. First thing is first. This bike has been sitting in a friends back yard for five years. For the years it has just been sitting it is in pretty great shape
Anyways the problem. I tested the spark plugs and there is no spark. I replaced the coils and had the same problem. The engine turns over, but lacks the spark. Right now I am replacing all the gaskets in the engine(no real reason other than when I opened it up my #1 cylinder was gummed up and I had the gasket kit)
I was just hopeing that someone could give me a comment on where to start tackling the spark problem. I am very new with bikes, but have some experience with car engines.
Anyways the problem. I tested the spark plugs and there is no spark. I replaced the coils and had the same problem. The engine turns over, but lacks the spark. Right now I am replacing all the gaskets in the engine(no real reason other than when I opened it up my #1 cylinder was gummed up and I had the gasket kit)
I was just hopeing that someone could give me a comment on where to start tackling the spark problem. I am very new with bikes, but have some experience with car engines.
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- mzandmz
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27 Aug 2009 14:08 #316783
by mzandmz
New to Family, 1979 KZ440 LTD
Replied by mzandmz on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
Are your points working or does it have electronic ignition?
New to Family, 1979 KZ440 LTD
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27 Aug 2009 14:13 - 27 Aug 2009 14:13 #316785
by mzandmz
New to Family, 1979 KZ440 LTD
Replied by mzandmz on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
I would start by checking the wire going to the coil with the key ON and Kill switch On. Make sure your MAIN fuse is good,and all other connections are makong good contact. Should get 10-12volts at the coil wire. I also take a screwdriver and touch accross the points and see if I get a spark.
New to Family, 1979 KZ440 LTD
Last edit: 27 Aug 2009 14:13 by mzandmz.
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- MFolks
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27 Aug 2009 14:47 #316792
by MFolks
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
Replied by MFolks on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
The older glass tubed fuses should be checked with either a multimeter set on OHMS(with the fuse removed from the clips)or a self powered test light.
They can fail internally but look good, so check them if there is no voltage to the ignition coils.
They can fail internally but look good, so check them if there is no voltage to the ignition coils.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- JR
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28 Aug 2009 19:21 #317176
by JR
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
Replied by JR on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
After the main things like the checking fuses and plug caps, dont forget the kill switch on the right handlebar switchgear as these are notorious. I would suggest getting a multi meter and checking back through the wiring from the coils to the ignitor to the electronic ignition under the right hand engine cover. Never know what you will find. I've had squashed bugs under kill switch and battery acid (no overflow tube) burn out wiring connectors.
Good luck.
Good luck.
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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- Mr.E
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01 Sep 2009 09:14 #318211
by Mr.E
Replied by Mr.E on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
Thank you guys for responding. I didn't think to look at the kill switch. It is electronic ignition. I think I am going to end up replacing the fuses in general. And see how it goes
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- Mr.E
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01 Sep 2009 09:17 #318212
by Mr.E
Replied by Mr.E on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
I am ordering new fuses and caps, but I never thought of looking at the kill switch in detail. Thanks a ton!
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01 Sep 2009 09:18 #318213
by Mr.E
Replied by Mr.E on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
yeah I guess ye old inspection wasn't doing the trick. one of them was burned out... thanks we shall see if it does the trick
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- Mr.E
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01 Sep 2009 09:21 - 01 Sep 2009 09:22 #318215
by Mr.E
Replied by Mr.E on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
Last edit: 01 Sep 2009 09:22 by Mr.E.
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- Patton
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01 Sep 2009 09:49 - 01 Sep 2009 10:06 #318227
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
To allow the engine to run, the kill switch should be in middle position (usually in alignment with the handlebar), which is the RUN position. If the kill switch is in either other position (left or right of center position) it is then in KILL position (aka NON-RUN or OFF position), which disallows voltage to the coils.
To assure voltage is reaching the coils for purposes of testing for spark at the plugs or test running the engine, a hot wire may be connected between the positive battery terminal to a primary terminal on each coil. Typically, each coil will have a red/yellow wire feeding battery positive voltage to one of the two primary terminals on the coil.
If there's no plug spark after assuring positive voltage to the coil, would then look to signal wire from ignition (the other wire to the coil's other primary terminal). The signal wire is supposed to repeatedly ground and unground the coil primary winding.,
While grounded, the coil primary charges. When ungrounded, the coils fires through the secondary loop, which circulates high intensity voltage through the spark plug wires and the coil's secondary winding.
Even with good coils receiving full battery voltage and good signals to primary windings terminals, there may be a problem somewhere in the secondary loop disallowing plug spark. Such as faulty plug wire, bad connection between wire and cap, defective cap, defective plug, bad connection between coil and plug wire, etc.
Good Luck!
To assure voltage is reaching the coils for purposes of testing for spark at the plugs or test running the engine, a hot wire may be connected between the positive battery terminal to a primary terminal on each coil. Typically, each coil will have a red/yellow wire feeding battery positive voltage to one of the two primary terminals on the coil.
If there's no plug spark after assuring positive voltage to the coil, would then look to signal wire from ignition (the other wire to the coil's other primary terminal). The signal wire is supposed to repeatedly ground and unground the coil primary winding.,
While grounded, the coil primary charges. When ungrounded, the coils fires through the secondary loop, which circulates high intensity voltage through the spark plug wires and the coil's secondary winding.
Even with good coils receiving full battery voltage and good signals to primary windings terminals, there may be a problem somewhere in the secondary loop disallowing plug spark. Such as faulty plug wire, bad connection between wire and cap, defective cap, defective plug, bad connection between coil and plug wire, etc.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 01 Sep 2009 10:06 by Patton.
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01 Sep 2009 10:01 - 01 Sep 2009 10:02 #318233
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
If testing with the hot wire from battery positive to ignition coils, remember to disconnect it after testing.
Leaving it permanently connected while the engine isn't running will likely damage the coils. Akin to just leaving tne ignition switch in ON position while the bike is parked.
Good Luck!
Leaving it permanently connected while the engine isn't running will likely damage the coils. Akin to just leaving tne ignition switch in ON position while the bike is parked.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 01 Sep 2009 10:02 by Patton.
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01 Sep 2009 10:11 #318236
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic 1980 KZ750E No Spark
If a wiring diagram is needed, here's a link to where one may be down-loaded.
First, click here >> Then down-load the wiring diagram
Good Luck!
First, click here >> Then down-load the wiring diagram
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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