hotter plugs?

Hi, if I spend most (about 85%) of my time on backroads doing 60 mph cruising, my engine is running relatively cool right? I am regularly carbon fouling my plugs. I plan on putting in a new ignition system and doing the WGCM, but could a B7ES plug set maybe help too?

Several things effect plug, especially any engine mods such as carb jetting, exhaust w/pods, vacuum leaks, compression and head valve conditions, cam and ignition timings etc....

One, do you have +12Vdc at the coils, then the wiring mod will do nothing for you...

Maybe this will help.... See attached...

Or download.... kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=448&Itemid=108

I am getting my valves and timing checked as soon as I can. As far as getting 12V at the coils, how would I check? I know that is a dumbass question, would I just connect a voltmeter to the 2 wires leading to the coils? does it need to be running?

My bike has 2 different coils, and both are old ass so when I replace the ignition system I will swap them out too.

vacuum leaks would make me run lean right? my carb boots are barely sitting on the carbs, there are leaks all around my carbs at the moment. I have new boots and am waiting for a day that I don't have relatives visiting to put them on.

Those carb boots sound like the ones on the airfilter side. If those dont fit on all the way it wont matter to much and at idle. But if there not on at all it will cause a lean run. The maim boots on the engine side have to be perfect no leaks.

ok, yeah it's the ones that go to the airbox. If I spray some WD-40 at the other ones to see if I have a leak will the WD-40 eat through them, or is there something else I can spray at them?

To answer your question about plugs, do as stated above and check the voltage to the coils. Get a multimeter and check the voltage at the battery and then check the voltage at the coil by grounding the (-) and placing the positive terminal in the single hot wire that splits into 2. That will indicate wheter you need to do the WGCM.
(I just did it, I was at 10.42 volts at the coils and it helped a lot.)

I now run B7ES plugs. Before the mod I ran the B7ES plugs and they did last a lot longer than the B8ES.

So, if you do nothing with your bike and all you do is swap out plugs, they will help a bit and last longer, but they will still eventually foul if you do not address the other issues with your bike.

KR

Most your spray type flammible cans will work.If you use carb cleaner or starting fluid, you will know right away if you have a leak. I wounld NOT spray when the engines Hot.And make sure theres no spark or open flame around, best to do it outside with a hose near buy. Fire-exting-wisher near by. To early for the fourth of july.:laugh: .:laugh: .:laugh: .:laugh:

KOOL RYDER wrote:

To answer your question about plugs, do as stated above and check the voltage to the coils. Get a multimeter and check the voltage at the battery and then check the voltage at the coil by grounding the (-) and placing the positive terminal in the single hot wire that splits into 2. That will indicate wheter you need to do the WGCM.
(I just did it, I was at 10.42 volts at the coils and it helped a lot.)

I now run B7ES plugs. Before the mod I ran the B7ES plugs and they did last a lot longer than the B8ES.

So, if you do nothing with your bike and all you do is swap out plugs, they will help a bit and last longer, but they will still eventually foul if you do not address the other issues with your bike.

KR

THanks...the only issue is that someone messed around with my wiring, so there is no wire that splits to the 2 coils. I wanted to do the mod a while ago but the wires had me all confused. I will check out my voltages and then figure out if I need the mod (and likely return with more questions about the mod!) if the fouling problem persists then I will swap plugs.

Thanks for explaining

9am53 wrote:

Hi, if I spend most (about 85%) of my time on backroads doing 60 mph cruising, my engine is running relatively cool right?

Not really, there is a lot of wind drag on a bike and it's engine has to make a fair amount of power to cruise at that speed. You do have good airflow, but the cylinders are making a ton of heat that flows outward.

9am53 wrote:

I am regularly carbon fouling my plugs.

All of them look the same, or just a couple?

9am53 wrote:

could a B7ES plug set maybe help too?

I don't think that's the real fix. I know on the twins where the standard plug is the hottest B6ES, people go UP to the cooler B7ES for highway cruising where the engine makes more heat than at low speed operation. I don't think going hotter than stock for highway speed is right, I think it's backwards.

Either you are running rich or maybe there is an ignition problem.

Unless I missed it (which is possible) you left out the single most critical bit of information. What plugs are in the bike today? Without knowing this, we can't tell if you plan to go hotter or colder with the B7ES plugs. Ed

I have a month and a half old set of B8ES plugs. All my plugs get the same amount of carbon depositing, which is to say quite a bit - I clean off the plugs once a month. I could be running rich, I installed a new air filter to prevent that, but who knows. How can you tell if you are running rich? My fuel economy when I take it easy is pretty good, so I thought i was running okay.

When I get the money to have my valves done they are going to synch my carbs, would they know then if they were not set up right?

I think tomorrow I will get a sec to check my ignition voltages and I will post the results. I have read many times about people pulling plugs and checking the colour of the spark, how do you do that? Would I pull a plug out then start the bike while holding the plug wire (I have dyna wires with no caps) and hold the plug close to the engine?