20amp fuse short somewhere? Help

I have been fixing up my 1981 KZ650 CSR/KZ650 H1 model bike since last summer. This spring the Carbs were sinked at the shop and have had been riding it until last week I was turning it around in my garage to leave and it just died. I checked the fuses and the 20amp was blown. I replaced it and it blew again. There was a wire when I pulled the cover off that the butt end of the Black with yellow stripped wire is all black could this be it? I am not very knowlegable of wiring. Battery works I already checked it! Thanks a bunch for what ever help I can get. LadyLea :blush:

I think Patton made this testing guide and I added a few things too:

The Dreaded Shorting/Intermittent Electrical Problem!

Here is the most basic method I know:

1. Charge your battery if you can.

2. Disconnect the Black lead from the (-) Battery terminal... or Red from the (+) Battery terminal, it does not matter which one.

3. Connect one of the following test setups in series with the Battery terminal and lead:
3.1 A 12 V light bulb,
3.2 A 12 V test light,
3.3 A 12 V test buzzer or,
3.4 A 12 V horn... you get the idea.

4. With the Ignition Switch OFF, go through your harness and wiggle the wires while looking/listening for the test setup to go on/start buzzing.

5.With the Ignition Switch ON, repeat the test except this time the looking/listening for the test setup to go on/stop buzzing.

6. Be prepared to open the Ignition switch and check/test for solder joint failure and or circuit board micro breaks (don't ask how I know this ).

7. Be prepared to pull the wires out of the Head Light to test for failures at or near the grommet.

8. Be prepared to open the harness at or near the Steering Neck for failures. This is where wires tend to exhibit fatigue due to repetitive movement.

9. Be prepared to open the left and right switch gear to search for rust and or broken parts. CAUTION: watch out for flying springs, ball bearings and stuff. Do indoors on White sheet (again don't ask ).

10. Be prepared to follow the heavy gauge wire from the Starter Solenoid (Relay) to the starter for bare ware wire exposure. Especially near bends and grommets.

11. If you can reproduce the fault symptom your are pretty much home free. Be prepare to find and repair/replace any internal wire breaks, insulation break downs, exposed wires, rubber grommet failures, etc. Often, shrink tubing will solve the problem temporarily until something better can be done.

12. I use a very good electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs in San Diego Ca. Their website is www.deoxit.com It can be purchased at Radio Shack and any other electronic supply store. I use it on all of my motorcycle’s electrical connectors , in my home entertainment center’s stereo patch cords and cordless phones charging cradles.

LadyLea's problem is somewhat similar to a problem I'm having on my 1979 650d, on sudden deceleration my main 20amp fuse blows sometimes. Never does it while under normal accelleration or riding conditions. The fact that she was turning at the time hints at a rubbing/ worn insulation type problem, ( maybe at the neck like you suggested but mine has me baffled so far. Has anyone else had this happen? (like what mine is doing?) any ideas would be great..I will try the tester like you suggest as well Mfolks

LadyLea wrote:

I have been fixing up my 1981 KZ650 CSR/KZ650 H1 model bike since last summer. This spring the Carbs were sinked at the shop and have had been riding it until last week I was turning it around in my garage to leave and it just died. I checked the fuses and the 20amp was blown. I replaced it and it blew again. There was a wire when I pulled the cover off that the butt end of the Black with yellow stripped wire is all black could this be it? I am not very knowlegable of wiring. Battery works I already checked it! Thanks a bunch for what ever help I can get. LadyLea :blush:

if you have access to a multi meter id disconect the white wire and check it for continuity to a good ground like engine case.i believe the white wire is tied back into the battery to feed it and runs to ignition switch on one end ,it also runs the other way back to your regulater i do believe.since the regulater is closer and easier to access(and im basically lazy! :laugh: ) id check it to ground on that end first

Hey Thanks Guys! I will give these ideas a try and see if I can get it up and running b4 the ice and snow fly:) I hate Electrical Problems.