I Replaced the stator, and it still won't charge

Hi all, and thanks in advance for any help, I've been lurking for a while, but I'm sort of stumped now.
A brief introduction... I just bought a 78 KZ1000 LTD in kind of rough shape, I've already changed the bars from the bent-up LTD bars that were on it to euro bars, and my new front tire should be in tomorrow (BT45, to match the rear). I've been riding dirt since I could walk, and I've been riding street for a few years now, '05 ninja 250 to '97 cbr 600 to honda elite 80 (more fun than you'd think), and now the kz. I'm hoping to keep the kz for longer, and improve it, and actually maintain it instead of reaming on it and selling it broken, which I've been known to do in the past. :blush:

Anyway, I replaced the stator after checking the resistance and finding it out of spec according to my clymer manual. But the bike still doesn't charge. ~11.5 volts while running, and it pooped out on me yesterday. My regulator/rectifier appears to be aftermarket-- It says VoltPak by Action Engineering of Riverside CA. I did a couple quick checks with the voltmeter after work and found that with the stator unplugged, the AC voltage readings (from an individual yellow lead to ground) were the same (I don't recall what they were), but with the stator plugged in, the same test showed 2 leads at ~8 vac and one at 25 vac.

I've been looking at the ElectroSport troubleshooting guide, and it's making me want to try the tests with a fresh battery, but I'm pretty sure I need to replace the R/R. If you agree, is there a unit I should be looking at that's better than the others? I noticed 2 on z1enterprises and 1 on the electrosport site.

sorry for a long post, here's a "before" pic of the bike to soothe your eyes. I'm thinking metallic olive/deep green to replace the pink, but I'm sorting the mechanics of the bike before I buy paint...

Here's a guide I created for alternator stator replacement:

Alternator Replacement On the Older 4’s
Source for replacement Stators
A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼” and 3/8” ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.



9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen bolts securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexiglass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum
Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

A. One WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

B. One smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

C. One BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

D. Three YELLOW wires, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.


18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.


Another check to perform would be to:

1. Fully charge the battery

2. Disconnect the alternator output at the regulator/rectifier electrical plug.

3. Start the engine and let it warm up.

4. With help of a friend, bring the engine spedd up to 4000 rpm.

5. Using a multimeter read all three yellow wire combinations(1-3,2-3, and 1-2) they should read 50 volts A.C.(alternating current)

6. If any of the three legs of this three phase output is not 50 volts the stator is not producing sufficient voltage.

7. Another place to look is behind the sprocket cover, there are three "Bullet Connectors" that connect to the wiring harness. They may be corroded/loose/damaged, so check there before replacing the stator.

8. In the same area are wires for the side stand switch,neutral switch and oil pressure switch.

Check the regulator. The stators rarely go bad.