Stator Voltage 77 kz1000

I need to know the output watt and voltage of the stock stator ( I am assuming stator and not generator) for my 77 kz1000.

Thanks,

I'd imagine the output voltage would be very close to my 82 GPZ1100 B2's It's three phase 50 volts A.C. at 4000 rpm during testing with the regulator/rectifier unplugged.

And looking at my shop manual it mentions 20 amps @ 8000 rpm,14 volts.

Using the old formula to figure Wattage of ExI,E being voltage and I being current we get 280 Watts.

If you wanted to go with a higher output stator, www.electrosport.com makes one.

Here's a guide for alternator staroe replacement I made up:

Alternator Replacement On the Older 4’s

Source for replacement Stators
A. www.electrosport.com (They have a trouble shooting page)
B. www.customrewind.com
C. www.rmstator.com
D. www.ricksmotorsportselectrics.com
E. www.regulatorrectifier.com

1. If by testing either by checking the output voltage from the stator or by using and ohmmeter for resistance and the stator is determined to be bad, replacing the stator is not a difficult job.

2. The motorcycle owner should have on hand a replacement alternator gasket as it will tear on removal and leak if reused.

3. Put the bike on the center stand if possible and lean it to the right to minimize the oil volume that could come out when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Have selection of Metric wrenches and sockets along with Metric Allen keys to be able to accomplish this repair. ¼” and 3/8” ratchets and extensions may be needed along with Allen bits.

5. Remove the gear shift lever, the sprocket cover and possibly the left foot peg assembly.

6. A catch pan for what little oil will be lost should be positioned under the alternator on the left side. Newspapers will soak up any oil lost or some kitty litter will do as an absorbent.

7. Remove the alternator cover fasteners, some bikes use a socket head cap screw(Allen type) and others use the Phillips head type, the #3 screwdriver bit fits best for those. Use a small dish or can to collect the removed fasteners from the parts to prevent loss/damage.

8. The alternator stator is secured to the inside of the cover usually with three Allen headed bolts, Remove them and disconnect the three yellow wires that have bullet connectors on them from the bundled wires inside the sprocket cover.



9. If your bike has some color other than yellow for the alternator output wires, make note of what goes where as the older Kawasaki’s were phase sensitive in regard to the regulator/rectifiers.

10. When installing the replacement stator, clock or position the output wires and grommet so they fit into the small port under the alternator cover without being pinched or damaged.

11. Tighten the three Allen bolts securing the replacement stator to the cover. I like using the BLUE Loctite # 242 for hardware that can be removed with hand tools.

12. Remove the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the alternator cover and engine case by scraping with a piece of sharpened plastic like Lexan or Plexiglass as these will not gouge the soft Aluminum
Cases. Avoid using a metal gasket scraper for this.

13. Position the alternator cover, checking for pinched wiring and install the fasteners with a little silver anti-seize on the threads, tightening to the correct torque.

14. Connect up the output wires to the mating female bullet connectors and while you’re in there, check the routing of the wire bundle that runs through there.

15. Inspect for signs of heat damage to the wire insulation and vibration damage too.

16. The side stand switch, neutral switch, and oil pressure switch wiring are all bundled with the alternator output wiring running above and behind the engine output sprocket. This bundle runs in a channel as it goes up toward the various electrical connections.

17. The regulator/rectifier plug on the 80’s bikes usually has six wires in it:

One WHITE with RED stripe, this is the bikes main power wire usually 12 gauge in size.

One smaller Brown wire, probably 18 gauge or so, the voltage sense wire for the regulator/rectifier, helps keeping it from overcharging the battery.

One BLACK with YELLOW stripe wire, part of the ground circuits, maybe 16 gauge in size.

Three YELLOW wires, the alternator output wires going to the regulator/rectifier which converts the Alternating Current(A.C.) to Direct Current(D.C.) using rectification, producing the power to run the motorcycle and charge the battery.


18. Reinstall the sprocket cover, again checking for pinched wires before tightening. Install the shifter on it’s splined shaft checking for proper location, and the left side foot peg assembly.

19. Except for the minor oil spill and reluctant fasteners, it’s not a very difficult job to do.

Thanks for the info,

My reason for needing the data is that I am replacing the reg/rec with a combined solid state. Electrosport does not sell one for the 77 kz1000 but I am replacing the wiring harness with a suzuki harness.

Once I have the stator info I can pick up a r/r. the small ones are up to 300 watts and 70v, the large r/r is for up to 600 watts and 90vac. I have several suzuki r/r's that will work fine for the kz.

The suzuki harness is about 10 lbs lighter than the kz and I know every wire.