82' kz550 ignitor and rectifier wiring

nelson8708 wrote:

The questions just keep coming. Now that i finished wiring i might have to go back and change some stuff. On another forum a guy pointed out that the r/y wire isn't a 12v wire. He said that the r/y wire might produce its voltage from the ignitor when the engine is running. Maybe the pick up coils provide the voltage. I went and traced that wire and it doesn't go to a power source.

Ideas?

Red/Yellow wire to coil primary winding terminal is supposed to be switched battery positive voltage.

Good Luck!

that is what i thought also but, the wiring diagram makes me wonder if that is correct. I highlighted that circuit and when its red is on the power side and when it turns blue (after the starter solenoid) its on the ground side.



I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes here, just trying to be sure i do it right the first time. I dont want to have to buy another ignitor if i get this wrong. Those suckers aren't cheap.

-Nelson

Is this the kz or the vulcan your talking about? On my kz550 a3 there is a brown wire coming from the ignition switch connector, or coming off the reg/rec connector. That brown wire is my 12v switched, brings power thru the ignition switch towards the regulator I believe. But looking at your wiring diagram i dont even see it. What model is yours, c,d,a?

nelson8708 wrote:

that is what i thought also but, the wiring diagram makes me wonder if that is correct. I highlighted that circuit and when its red is on the power side and when it turns blue (after the starter solenoid) its on the ground side.

img198.imageshack.us/img198/7339/e8wcb9.jpg [/img]

I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes here, just trying to be sure i do it right the first time. I dont want to have to buy another ignitor if i get this wrong. Those suckers aren't cheap.

-Nelson

No toe damage here :lol: and understand the caution, having fried plenty more than bacon. :laugh:

The black/white version is sometimes difficult to follow.

KZR has three KZ550 wiring diagrams in color.

In the green ribbon toward top of screen, point to "KZ Information"

Click on "Filebase"

Click on "1982"

Click on one of the three KZ550 tabs

Click on Wiring Diagram

Click on Download

A wiring diagram in color should appear on screen.

Zoom in on the igniter and ignition coil area.

Note wiring from Igniter:
red/yellow to coils (bat+)
black to one coil (signal)
green wire to the other coil (signal)
black/yellow to ground
four wires to pick-up coils (being two from each pick-up coil)

I will attempt to include the color wiring diagram in this post.
Sorry, Couldn't figure out how to post my saved Adobe Acrobat File.

Good Luck!

Some one finally pointed out what i missed when looking at the wiring diagram. There is a small wire that goes from the kill switch to the start button that provides the 12v power source. I need to go back and undo what i did today when i change the wiring around....

DOOP!!!!! (homer simpson voice) :lol:

P.S.

That color wiring diagram makes it so much easier to look at....I think i'm going try to start her this weekend or next.

The coils and ignitor get their power from the ignition switch through the kill switch.

This is for a D model, but yours will be similar. I marked a couple errors on it.

... But this is probably what you really want to look at to get it running...

Also, download this page and save it. It will disappear in october.

www.geocities.com/loudgpz/GPZgmHEImod.html

In case you don't have it already, here's a manual:
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/KZ5mnl.pdf
It's the same one in my signature.

It has good info, but some of the cam timing info is questionable. When it comes time to do the valve shims, post here and I'll post some better photos from the factory manual for cam timing.

Also, just as a warning, you should not bolt the valve cover on with the cam chain tensioner in place. The tension needs to be released while the valve cover is being installed. This is because the valve cover has a chain guide that pushes down on the chain when you install it.

loudhvx wrote:

Also, just as a warning, you should not bolt the valve cover on with the cam chain tensioner in place. The tension needs to be released while the valve cover is being installed. This is because the valve cover has a chain guide that pushes down on the chain when you install it.

I kinda already did that once when i checked the valve lash. Next, time i remove it i'll make sure not to make the same mistake. Can you break anything from doing that? I have already rotated the engine by hand so i know the timing change didnt break unless this is a non interferance engine.

nelson8708 wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

Also, just as a warning, you should not bolt the valve cover on with the cam chain tensioner in place. The tension needs to be released while the valve cover is being installed. This is because the valve cover has a chain guide that pushes down on the chain when you install it.

I kinda already did that once when i checked the valve lash. Next, time i remove it i'll make sure not to make the same mistake. Can you break anything from doing that? I have already rotated the engine by hand so i know the timing change didnt break unless this is a non interferance engine.

Well, probably didn't do too much bad since you didn't run it. Running it will grind up the guides and such until the chain regains some slack. It usually doesn't break the chain, but can mess up the tensioner and guides. At this point, all you have to do is loosen and remove the big cap-looking thing on the tensioner. A spring and cross-wedge should pop out. Pay attention to how the wedge was oriented. Slap them back in and screw the cap back on and turn the motor forward. That will "reset" the tensioner with less tension.

nelson8708 wrote:

...have already rotated the engine by hand....

Likely already known, but will mention this caution for any readers who might be unaware.

Should always use the 17mm "fake" nut to hand turn the crank shaft, always rotating forward, never backward. And never use the head of the 13mm bolt that screws into end of crankcase which holds the advancer unit. Using the 13mm bolt head to rotate the crankshaft risks stripping male threads on bolt and female threads inside crankshaft, or worse (such as snapping off bolt inside the crankshaft).

That's what the 17mm "fake" nut is designed for -- so best to use it as intended.

Good Luck!

Is the tensioner the thing that sticks out located right under the carbs? I'll look through the manual to make sure i do it right. Also, where is that "17mm fake nut" located? I just put a wrench on the front sprocket with the bike in high gear and rotated it that way (turning the sprocket counter clockwise).

Thanks,
-Nelson