HELP ! Grounded Points

I'm not sure what bike you have, but they are all pretty much similar I suppose. The wiring from the points goes to the ignition coils, then off to various bulbs that tie to ground. A bulb is nearly a short circuit to a meter so chances are you read 3 or 4 ohms through the coil to the points and you may read "near ground" when points open. Near ground would be 2-4 ohms, so if this is the case your 1-4 is normal. 2-3 is wrong if ohms jump higher than that when the points open. I remember setting points with a meter years ago and you really had to watch the meter for an indication of points opening, it doesn't go from ground to open circuit.

If you are using a meter, I think I know the path that reads "short". Both positive coil primaries tie to the same +12V point. Both have a negative wire going to a set of points. If you disconnect one but the other is still grounding, you will read eight Ohms to ground which looks like a short. You may also have other low impedance devices hanging on that 12V rail to ground like light bulbs which are low impedance paths to ground.

Ohming the disconnected neg coil wire sends current up to the "12V line and then it goes to ground through any path it has.

This problem is with a kz650c. I just went through this procedure last week without a hitch. I tried to crank it and it was firing only on 2&3. I tested, cleaned then replaced points and condensers. Unless something happened to the coils while I was trying to crank it, I don't know. I can set it up for static timing on 1&4 and I read a solid short to ground with points open or closed. Without moving the crank, I can read ground on 2&3 points then, open the points, it reads open circuit just as it did last week. I roll the crank over to 'F' mark for 2&3, and I get the same problem on those readings (2&3 grounded, 1&4 open). I can also disconnect wire on either coil and it will clear the ground from points. If this is all normal, it was really screwed up last week and I didn't realize it. Thanks for the info.

Do you have access to a test light?

Yes. I have a strobe light.

A test light not a timing light. It looks like an ice pick with a light bulb in the handle and has a wire with an alligator clip.

Yes, I have a 12V test light.

Put the meter away and get out the test light. Hook all the wires back up to the points. Ground the light with the clip, if its grounded it will light when you touch the positive on the battery. With the key on put the test light on the points and rotate the crank with the 17mm nut. When the points open the light will light up, when closed it will go off. Lets see if this will get you going for now and lets forget the reading from the meter. The light does the same as the meter for this. If the points are closed open them manually to see if the light lights on both sides. If both sides light go ahead and get the light to fire on the F mark for both sides.

Thanks, Kawickrice ! You make it sound too simple after all this moaning I've been doing. In other words, forget all the grounds and opens and just look for the light .

Yes. If you do not get fire to either side we will chase that when we get to it. For now see if the light will go on and off with the point opening and closing on both sides.

UPDATE: The light did the trick. I put the timing light on it and it was so close, I didn't move it. Test ride went great ! I'm sure the carbs need tweeking but, the throttle response is very good and missing, backfiring,and smoke is gone. My brother,owner, will be very pleased. Thanks Kawickrice, and all the others who responded to my pleas for help. Have a good and safe ride. Doug

I'm glad it worked for ya.