New stator and still problems

I bought a new stator last winter, and still...I am having charging issues. Can anyone help me out why I still am die'n on the road?

Dude, are you serious....:blink: ?

You just posted on the carb section about your bike is not even running due to you cutting your exhaust, screwing around with your jetting, the carbs are off for jetting and the bike isn't even running and now this post....

Your killing us man... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Seriously, tackle one thing at a time and complete that part of it, then move onto the next issue or you'll never get this bike running properly...

Have you checked the other charging components like the regulator rectifier. What took out the stator before you replaced it. If the reg/rec is not working properly it can take out the stator, even a new one. I went through this a few years ago and replaced all components and verified no shorts in the wiring. Been good every since.

Old Man Rock Dude, are you serious.... ?

You just posted on the carb section about your bike is not even running due to you cutting your exhaust, screwing around with your jetting, the carbs are off for jetting and the bike isn't even running and now this post....

Your killing us man...

Seriously, tackle one thing at a time and complete that part of it, then move onto the next issue or you'll never get this bike running properly...

LOL! I know....I just hate to have all of these issues..But you are right..One thing at a time.

DA, Since your' looking at down time anyway, why not remove wire harness unwind and inspect. 30 + year old harnesses usually exibite signs of PO "fixes"/ wear/corrosion. etc K&L offers a teminals kit which includes a varity of OE fasteners and the proper crimping tool for repairs. If more than simple repairs are required, consider ebaying a salvagable hareness if for no other reason for proper connectors/correct wiring colors. get a quality wiring schematic, and reproduce as close to stock as possible.avoid soldering when feasible. use heat shrink again when practical as opposed to elec. tape. use di-elecrtic grease liberally. fuse boxes and the area of wire harness leading to H/L bucket are primary failure aeas. for grins, add a couple harness to chassis grounds( I like one at t/l/rear ts junction and inside h/l bucket) Luck G

Gane, why avoid soldering? Just curious..

Soldering makes the wire stiff and unable to flex. Consider that house wiring is made with solid wire but vehicle wiring(Cars,Boats, Motorcycles,Aircraft,Tanks,and Missiles) have stranded wires to allow movement due to vibration and other factors.

If you must solder, make sure the electrical joint is not sujected to movement. There are special heatshrinkable crimp splices used in repair of broken/damaged wires.

The wires are first stripped away from the conductor,usually 3/16", inserted into the splice(or butt connector)one end at a time,crimped, and when the crimp is good, a high temperature heat gun is used to melt the inner wall of the splice so it seals the electrical joint from moisture and corrosion.

Here's a listing of the special heatshrinkable splices:

Heat Shrink Butt Splices From Cable Organizers
www.cableorganizers.com
PART # WIRE GAUGE COLOR PACK QTY PRICE
NSPA-KS5-20 22-24 AWG CLEAR 50 $13.89
NSPA-KS5-16 18-20 AWG RED 50 $13.49
NSPA-KS5-14 14-16 AWG BLUE 50 $13.82
NSPA-KS5-10 10-12 AWG YELLOW 50 $16.48
NSPA-KS5-08 8 AWG PINK 50 $43.52


Another listing for the non-adhesive harness tapes:

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Dry Vinyl Tape From Tape Brothers
www.tapebrothers.com

Dry Vinyl Tapes are non-adhesive plasticized polyvinyl chloride film tape. Easy unwinding characteristics - tape clings firmly to it’s own backing for tight wrap. High elongation and good strength to permit trouble-free binding of wiring harnesses for the automotive industry. Dry vinyl tape also used for plating applications- high stretch, good “cling” characteristics and great conformability provide for superior masking in hard chrome and other plating applications.

DVT-76B 2 in. x 250 ft. Black Dry Vinyl Tape
2 in. x 250 ft. Black Dry Vinyl Tape
Our Price: $6.54 Per Roll

www.wiringharness.com
You've probably looked everywhere for this Non-Adhesive Harness Tape. It's impossible to find. We've got it though, and it's 100% correct.
• Non-Adhesive Vinyl Harness Tape, made to the original mil-thickness.
• Just wrap it tightly around the wires and knot the end.
• 100 foot roll is enough to do 3 to 4 harnesses complete.
• Available in three different widths, as original.
• Correct for all years (1955 to Present).

Part # Description Price
R0058272 3/4" Vinyl Harness Tape, 100 foot roll $12.00
R0058276 1" Vinyl Harness Tape, 100 foot roll $13.00
R0067108 1-1/4" Vinyl Harness Tape, 100 foot roll $15.00
www.keefeperformance.com/silicone_tape.html

"36 Foot" roll of Self bonding silicone tape
High temperature silicone tape
This Mil-spec silicone tape is Rated up to 500+ degrees

Made of silicone rubber, this self fusing silicone tape will protect most all electrical wiring, connectors, hoses, spark plug boots and more from extremely high temperatures. The self vulcanizing process automatically begins when the two sides of the tape are put into contact. A catalyst on one side of the tape begins the bonding process as soon as wrapping takes place.
great for all electrical wiring, harness, cable, and hose applications
Colors: Red and Black
Exceeds MIL AA-59163 TYPE 1 & 2
ASTM-D 2137 / -65C
ASTM D-412
ASTM D-149
Electrical, Home, Auto, Truck, RV, Marine, Motorcycle, Military, Commercial, Industrial, Generator

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V, soldering, while provides excellent continutity has 2 drawbacks, first, because it is solid (more or less) provides a possible stress point for a future break (vibration induced) and 2nd, solder usually has a "rosin core" in essence an either acid or base additive which promotes solder flow/adhesive. either will accelerate corrosion. If you have the oportunity to dismantle a stock wire harness, you might note internal splices usually have crimped collets at junctions w/naked wires. they still fail, but seldom break. My 2 cents, but as a vet, when ever automotive fasteners or make-shift wireing is involved, that is where I start. G

Well I rebuilt the wiring harness using the Factory service manual. Somethings on the bike were not working right because some butthole decided to screw around with the wiring...so I went inside put everything back to stock. I also put in a new fuse block! It's crazy....When i put my meter on the battery, it's ready 10Volts, and when I start it up...it's running like at 13V. But when I try to start the motorcycle after riding for awhile. It will hesitate to start. Like the battery is dead. When I jump it...it starts right up

Battery is low.

Would remove it from the bike and set it on the workbench.

Add distilled water if needed.
May shine flashlight into battery from backside to easily view fluid levels.

Expect to charge overnight at 2 amps max (1 amp is best).

With charger unplugged, first connect positive terminal.
Next connect negative terminal.
Then plug in the charger.

NO open flames close to battery as the fumes can explode.
Might explode anyhow, so be mindful of that risk. Wear eye protection and have water shower nearby for emergency.
Don't allow battery to over-heat while charging.

Upon completed charging, first unplug charger.
Then disconnect negative terminal.
Lastly disconnect positive terminal.

Test specific gravity (little floating balls).

Have load tested if in doubt.

Re-install in bike.

Assure clean tight terminal connections.

Assure good ground connection where negative battery cable attaches to engine or frame.

Start engine and check charging system.

Measure voltage at idle rpm -- look for 12+ volts.

Measure voltage at 3000~4000 rpm -- look for 14+ volts.

Over 14+ voltage at 3000~4000 rpm may result from defective regulator.

No voltage increase from idle~4000 rpm may result from defective rectifier.

Check integrity of wiring and connectors and fuses. And clean fittings.

If needed, Z1E should have a new replacement combo reg/rec unit.

Good Luck!

Reminder -- never jump start bike from another vehicle's battery while the other vehicle's engine is running.

Like I said, I have already done the re-wire, and new fuse box, but everything else...I will do.