coil mod question

Typically, there's a dual connector on the end of one wire that feeds a separate wire from the dual connector to each coil.

On many bikes, the wire is red/yellow.

The wire should have electric current only when the ignition switch is turned ON. And the voltage should match battery voltage.

The coil mod circumvents existing wiring to assure full battery voltage to the coils where old existing wiring is hampering current flow from battery to coils.

Where full battery voltage is already reaching the coils through existing wiring, the coil mod won't add any additional voltage to the coils.

Good Luck!

Patton, instead of following the two red ignition coil wires back to where they join the dual connector wire, would it work if I just attached both of those wires to the wire that goes to lug #86, since the coil wires just go back to that wire anyway?

Plummen, the bike runs actually runs really well, but I just wanted to make sure it's getting full power to the cables.

Hi chrispysaki... two thoughts on this:

1) I share your curiosity and concern over the ability of 30 year old wires, connectors and especially switch gear to go on forever. My original problems with my bike had many sources in this area. So, in MHO, adding the WG Coil Re-powering modification proactively rings true to me. Good stuff!

2) I'm just not smart enough to follow an electrical issue without a diagram... the simpler the better. So, see below two implementations of the WG Coil Re-powering mod. Note that the colour codes reflect those of my '77 KZ650-B1 and the wires I had available in my shop at the time of installation. True, my use of 12 AWG is clearly overkill... but in my defence, I certainly get exactly battery voltage at the coils every time.



Based on the upper (WG Coil Re-powering mod "Classic") diagram, I would think that any switched Battery voltage to your electronic ignition could be taken from any convenient point after pin 87... and that's what I did.

However, since this involves more current in this new and additional 5 Amp circuit, therefore the fuse would have to be increased accordingly... which means I'm not sure how much in your case. Others will need to chime in on this matter. When I upgraded to Electronic ignition (Dyna S) I got away with the same 5 Amp fuse.

See here for other details of how I implemented my WG Coil Repowering Mod.:

Link

Hope this is useful. Best of success.
Bill

PS
Please add your year, model and location as previously requested as it makes it easier to answer your questions and it's considered real friendly too.
Bill

Plummen, the bike runs actually runs really well, but I just wanted to make sure it's getting full power to the cables.

That's great to hear your bike's running good now, saki, what did you do to fix it? Last I heard, you were having some serious issues ("Is it my ignition coils?"). Just curious.

Bill, thanks for posting that. I'm going to try to get it finished up tonight. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm riding a 1981 KZ750 H2.

Cychotic, the bike (1980 KZ750 E1) that was having the problems is still having them. I found the above 81 KZ750 for nearly half the price ($450) and it runs great, so right now I'm enjoying riding that one while I work up the courage to dive into the one with the problems. It pumps out bluish smoke, so I'm thinking I'll at least need to take off the header and replace the valve stem seals. That doesn't really address the knocking sound in cylinders 1 & 4, though.

I see. Too bad about the first bike, but you got a great deal on the second, and at the very least you got a good parts bike for the runner. Glad to hear you're now riding.

chrispysaki wrote:

Bill, thanks for posting that. I'm going to try to get it finished up tonight. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm riding a 1981 KZ750 H2.

FYI, this is were I connected in my Dyna DS2-2 Electronic Ignition under the right cover.



Remember to take some before and after pics to share with us!

Best of success.
Bill