'82 KZ1000J - Replacement alternator rotor problem

Howyadoin,

My bike took an unscheduled flight thanks to a stuck throttle cable during a test ride. This wiped out the left side cover, rotor and stator. We have the new parts in, and the cover and stator are fine, but the rotor doesn't look like the right part. The part number is correct according to the parts fiches, but I'm not sure... Here's a look at the old and new parts:



As you can see, the diameter is different, the magnets are different, and most importantly the collar that goes onto the shaft looks different. Any ideas?

Also, do you really need the factory tool to pull the rotor, or will a case-hardened bolt do the trick?

One last thing... The existing headlight takes a halogen bulb. The new light we ordered and received is a sealed-beam style, but again, the parts fiches say it's the right one. What gives?



Thanks!

-Mark P.
Beverly, MA

Well it looks different to me too. I'm not familiar with 1000's charging systems but does the part on the outer case go on the inside of the rotor or on the out side. I'm asking because the inner diameter looks close and magnets look like they could be superseded. The sealed beam light is correct, the one with a replaceable bulb is after market.

It must have revved real high, was there any other damage?

Mark

Hi Mark,

The bike landed and slid right on the alternator cover on that side of the engine, so that along with the rotor and stator took the brunt of the damage. The speedo, the headlight and the left turn signals also took some damage.

The stator mounts on the engine cover, and sits inside the rotor. Apparently the stator does fit within the confines of the new rotor. The major question is whether or not the new rotor will mount properly on the shaft. It's not clear if this is just a redesigned part that was made to be more universal or just the wrong part entirely.

Thanks,
-Mark

The_Raven wrote:

Also, do you really need the factory tool to pull the rotor, or will a case-hardened bolt do the trick?

I am not sure on your motor, but on the 900/1000 motors, you use the big bolt on the upper triple tree, that is the removal tool. It may be the same on yours but am not sure. It would be worth checking into. Good Luck

Howyadoin,

Just to follow up, that rotor was the wrong part. We sent that back to the vendor and I managed to find the right one on eBay. We also ordered the factory tool to pull the rotor. The engine fired up yesterday for the first time since the accident!

:woohoo:

Other than a new throttle cable and turn indicator (both en route), that's it for the functional repairs I think... With a little luck, I'll be taking my maiden voyage real soon!

Hello,
I believe the rear wheel axle shaft thread is the same size of the altenator rotor.
We use to use it at a pinch, and tap it carefully with a softfaced hammer to release the rotor from the taper.
Hope this is useful.
Regards
ThosKiwi
p.s. when this (crunched altenator) happened to my friends bike (1981 1000J) it twisted the cranked on the outboard big end throw. A skilled Honda mechanic sorted the crank out with his lead hammers, very reasonably for us and reduced the overall runout, so the footpegs no longer vibrated annoyingly at 4000rpm/60mph, for $100 and a case of a dozen Steinlager.ThosKiwi