Slow Cranking with Assured good battery

I know for a fact this battery is a good one, its brand new, and was tested by two places and both came back good.

My question is what would cuase it to crank super slow as if the battery were dead? It just crawls along and I have to push the thing and pop the clutch to start it where ever I go. (old school I know)

If you want to increase the cranking ability from the battery, go to larger conductors(cables) on the battery terminals. A welding supply store can provide the conductors.

I'd recommend at least a minimum of 6 gauge and even 4 gauge for increased starting current. Welding cable is very flexible and will fit where other cables won't. It comes in either red or black insulation.A good battery shop should be able to crimp new terminal ends for you.

Your list should have:
1.Cable from Positive RED (+) Battery Terminal to the Starter Solenoid.

2.Cable from Starter Solenoid to the Starter Motor.

3.Cable from the Negative(-)BLACK Battery Terminal to the Engine mounting bolt or frame.

In some situations like this even with new larger cables the engine still cranks slowly, so two things to check:

1. The condition of the starter motor: are the brushes inside worn down so they will not transmit sufficient current to the commutator. or has a bushing been worn so increased friction makes the motor turn slow.

2. Is the starter solenoid failing internally.

A website that has parts to rebuild starter motors is at:http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_startermotor_repair_kits/startmtrkit.htm

If the prices seem too high,ask around at the electric motor rebuild places in your area.

If the starter solenid has failed or getting weak the dealer will want about $100 to replace it. I'd recommend taking your solenoid along and visit the riding lawnmower repair shops. Sears and John Deere carry solenoids that will work after slight modifications in wiring and mounting. And the nice thing is the price, about $20!

Check your grounds too.

Mark

Another thing to check.... I haven't encountered this personally, but I've heard stories of failed starter cover gaskets that allow water down into the starter housing, causing the symptoms you are describing. Pull off your cover and see if you have corrosion down in there and if so clean it up, and get yourself a new gasket. Good luck.

Bullitt03737 wrote:

I know for a fact this battery is a good one, its brand new, and was tested by two places and both came back good.

My question is what would cuase it to crank super slow as if the battery were dead?

Bad starter relay (too much resistance across the points)

bad starter

engine very tight (like after rebuild) and starter can't turn it

The battery was tested as "good" but is it fully charged? A good battery, i.e. all cells test ok, can still be less than fully charged and fail to crank the engine especially if there are cable issues or poor connections. If you know someone else with a similar bike try their battery in your to see if it makes a difference. Also, try this: turn on the lights and see if they are really bright before you crank but go really dim (as in just about out) when you crank it. If so, you may have too much resistance somewhere along the starter circuit (bad switch, connector, or starter). Ed

I have redone the ground wire already, with heavy gauge wire. And the ground points are very solid.


I discovred one of my carb bodies was cracked, I had another rack laying around so I switched my carb bodies out and im good to go on that front agian. While I had it all ripped apart I did the coil repower mod. In an effert to track down my slow cranking problem I jump the starter selinod with a screw driver, and it cranked at a normal speed. So It seems like the selinoid is starting to go bad on me. I will start looking for one, And my gasket on the starter cover is bad. I will Check that out as well.


Thanks for the quick replys on the question.

Ian