question for you gurus....

So i have a 1980 KZ750G or LTDII. First question has to do with the speedo and tach. Both are not working and since they both look like they were made out of rust I'm thinking that I am going to have buy a new set. I don't really care for a tach, but a speedo would be nice to keep an eye out for the police. Any aftermarket speedo's that anybody recommends? I am by no means a metal fabricator so this would have to be a pretty bolt on mod.

Second...Anybody ever replaced their Master cylinder with one from another make and model? I was wondering if the MC was interchangeable between makes even if I wanted to keep the existing calipers. Anybody know which make and model would be a good fit to the calipers on the 1980 KZ750? It's a single rotor....
Any input is highly appreciated so please shoot away.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

how do you do that....this is the first forum I've seen people do this....Thanks for the link though, guess I'm going to have to buy these, any suggestions for the MC?

Bek82 wrote:

how do you do that....this is the first forum I've seen people do this....Thanks for the link though, guess I'm going to have to buy these, any suggestions for the MC?

This particular ebay item number is 270315646499

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With single disc front brake, should use a 14mm master cylinder instead of 5/8". The 14mm and 5/8" refer to bore size. These regularly appear on ebay in both sizes. But I believe the 5/8" is more frequently listed, so be careful to get the smaller 14mm size.

On my Z1, I use the trapezoidal shaped 14mm size from oem 1978 KZ1000-A2 single front disc model. In 1979 the trapezodial shaped master cylinder was enlarged to 5/8" for the dual front discs. The earlier Z1-KZ900A-KZ1000A1 barrel style was 14mm, but the KZ900B1LTD with dual front discs has oem 5/8" barrel style.

It's difficult to discern the size without knowing the exact oem bike/model source, or reading the size which sometimes appears in raised letters on the bottom of the master cylinder.

Often a master cylinder is rebuildable. But changing handlebar styles may prompt replacement of a master cylinder designed for oem buckhorn/pullback handlebars. If keeping the same oem handlebars, would consider rebuilding the existing master cylinder.

Good Luck!

Yeah trying to rebuild it would be nice. Except the two screws at the top are completely stripped and they won't budge even when I use a reverse drill bit. If I could remove it, then rebulding would be the best thing...any suggestions in getting these screws loose? I can't drill them out because I might damage the existing threading.

boy depending on your hurry or how ratty things are ...i would just check e-bay twice a day...those items can come up and get bid on way crazy(too much mula).....but.....they also come up alot with no one bidding and no reserve with cheap shipping.....wait and stay checking it... will acheive a good buy a lot of times......you can get a whole front brakes sytem from the lever to the calipers..for 30-50 sometimes and a console panel with everything for 40 -90 i bet......and have some extra goodies to mess with,then you can take your time and fix the stuff you got now at your pace...folks say needs cleaning/rebuild ect....to cover their sales feedback...i find that most stuff still works fine imo.........a lot of kawi models can be interchanged samr year dif size bike or 1 or 2 dif year same size.......also place a want add here in classifieds...you will get it done....best of luck...craig

For seized screw removal: If you know someone with a TIG welder, get him to weld a similar sized stud(s) to the head of your old screw(s). Usually the heat travelling down the stripped screw from the welding process is enough to free the seized screw. Grab the stud with a pair of vice grips and back the stud/screw unit out. I've seen my boss do this little trick to salvage literally hundreds of valve covers/heads and master cylinders as well as all kinds of other bits and pieces. Then you can whiz out to your nearest metric fastener supply place and get some new screws and you're back on the road.

some times a cold chisel will work if you hit at the right angle i have had to do it lots over the years on the bikes that get resurected when guy's figure out new bikes are expensive.

Yeah trying to rebuild it would be nice. Except the two screws at the top are completely stripped and they won't budge even when I use a reverse drill bit. If I could remove it, then rebulding would be the best thing...any suggestions in getting these screws loose? I can't drill them out because I might damage the existing threading.


To confirm ---

Does this diagram depict the existing master cylinder and the #14 screws that are stuck in position?

A reverse drill bit has already been tried without success?

The female threads are believed okay if remnants of the screws remaining stuck inside the female threads can be removed without damaging the female threads?

Anything left of the screw heads? If not, does the cap pull off exposing part of the stuck screws? Or have the screws been drilled to where there's nothing above the female threads?

Is a photo of the existing master cylinder available showing the area in question?

Good Luck!

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