Ignition Switch?

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15 May 2009 14:20 #291456 by Qdude
Ignition Switch? was created by Qdude
Hi all,

Weather sure is getting nice, isn't it?

I am rooting out electrics. My main fuse melted one very rainy night, after the taillight fuse blew.
I know the wires were wet, one wire bundle's protective sheath was holding 'bout 1 tablespoon of water. Opened it up and am drying it out.

I removed the main fuse (chunks) and set an ohm meter across the contacts.

My bike is intermittently reading .5oo ish (2K Ohm setting) across the main fuse gap (fuse removed) with the key in the "off" position. (of course it should be zero load)

At this time it also reads "OL" (zero load) in the on position.

It does have power in the battery.

I believe that I have
a. a bad ignition.
b. water in the contacts of the ignition or water shorting out the wiring.
c. a pinched or shorting power wire leading to the ignition.

Any thoughts all?

77 KZ 650 C1.
77 KZ 650 C1.
Crashed-Repaired, Pods, Kerker pipe, re-wired core bundle, lamp upgraded, homemade rectifier, solid state regulator , Dyna-s ignition, repainted, slightly modified, year-round commuter
Honda Metro 85 mpg Scooter. Dont laugh I will throw it at you

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15 May 2009 15:08 #291464 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Ignition Switch?
I'd have the multimeter connected across the fuse clips, and start disconnecting circuits until the ohm reading goes away. this will help in isolating which circuit is causing problems.

Another way is to fully charge up the battery,disconnect the ignition coils to prevent overheating and connect either a light,buzzer, or a turn signal flasher relay across the fuse clips with the power on. If there is a short the light,buzzer, or turn signal flasher will come on,
buzz, or click indicating a wiring problem.

It can be a bad handlebar switch,pinched wires,some wires in the bundle rubbing together, or a bad ignition switch.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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