Rebuilt carbs installed no start. Electrical ?

My ride was running pretty good and I decided I wanted WG to rebuild my carbs.
I received them and installed the carbs. The bike started once but was only running on 1 and 2. 1 and 2 were real hot 3 and 4 you could touch with no problem, they were warm to the touch.
Lots of choke and throttle kept it running, but not for long. Will not run at all now. Drain on bottom of carbs when opened will drain fuel so I know fuel is in there.

While I was waiting for the carbs I also did WGs wiring update. I 'm pretty darn sure I did it right. The bike has been covered up, but outside during the long wait, which was about 5 months, I have no choice. I suspect an electrical problem.
Sitting out in the weather did not help at all. Any help would be appreaciated. I have Dyna-S Ignition, Dyna 3 ohm coils, And Ign wires, but not installed yet.

What is the voltage at coil input with key on?

All help appreaciated.... Thanks

PB. Hot 1-2 indicates fuel delivery. as ign.is 1-4 2-3.double check for kinked line/s luck g

Try shooting some starter fluid in each carb and see if you can get it to run off of that. If it does, you most likely have a fuel problem. Will it run with the choke on?

Also, when you did the coil mod, did you solder all of the connections? If you just used crimp on connectors and/or wire splices and it sat outside, they most likely will have corroded.

Make sure you check to see if you put the coils to the correct cylinders. I think you have 3 and 4 on the same coil...Russ

O.K.I took the air filter out and sprayed starter fluid into the air box. It started and ran real nice for about 5 seconds, so I know its a fuel problem now. I'll start the hunt for a fuel problem tomorrow. Starting with the tank and working my way to the carbs. I cannot imagine anything being wrong with the carbs, Wired George rebuilt them.

Thanks toadson, Russ,& gane.

When the rebuilt carbs were first installed, am hoping a brand new inline fuel filter was also installed before allowing any fuel to the carbs.

If not, the nice clean float needle/seat orifice interfaces in the fresh carbs may have been immediately contaminated by grit and crud suspended in the fuel.

The petcock filter screens are woefully inferior to a decent inline filter.

Good Luck!

I did'nt use a new filter but I used the old one which was'nt to old. I thought it was real clean. does this mean I should remove the carbs and clean the float needles?
Thanks poolboy

poolboy wrote:

I did'nt use a new filter but I used the old one which was'nt to old. I thought it was real clean. does this mean I should remove the carbs and clean the float needles?
Thanks poolboy

Carbs may be okay, so long as inline filter is still doing its job. Hoping it was fitted correctly oriented when originnaly installed and always re-fitted the same way.

Could loosen or remove float bowl drain screws and turn on petcock (manual petcock to ON, or vacuum petcock to PRI) to determine in each carb whether fuel is getting past float needle into bowl. [EDIT: Oops, just noticed this has already been done]

Also, what do plugs look like when removed from non-firing cylinders? Wet with gas smell? Dry?

As plugs could be fuel-fouled beyond recovery, would install brand new spark plugs in the non-combusting cylinders, and test run for effect.

With plugs removed, would visually inspect spark quality while spinning engine over with ignition turned ON and holding plug base grounded the head. When doing this, both plugs from the particular coil involved should be simultaneously grounded.

As to earlier question regarding voltage to coils, ideally, the voltage actually reaching the coil should match the battery voltage (shown no loss of voltage along the line between battery and coil).

Good Luck!