Need help with ignition wire routing on a KZ750E1

I adjusted the valves about six months ago, and now my dumb ass can't be sure I've got the wires routed correctly now that I've got the time to finish the job (getting laid off has it's benefits too, I guess....).

Facing forward on the bike, I've got the top wire on the left side coil going to #2 cyl and the bottom wire to #3.

On the right side coil, I've got the top wire on cyl #4 and the bottom wire on #1.

Is that correct? The bike seems like it's firing sequence if off.
And yes, I'm pretty positive the valve train is in time. Before I take the valve cover back off, I wanna make sure I didn't screw up something else first.

This bike was hacked up by an idiot before I got it. The electrical systems been voodooed up somewhat, it appears.

That is the stock configuration. At least as far as the right coil firing 1 and 4 and the left coil firing 2 and 3 (the bigger bikes are opposite). The right coil should have a black wire to it and the left coil should have a green wire to it.

If it runs at all, then I think the config has to be right. If all it does is backfire now and then but won't start, then it may be ignition. The only other thing that would make the timing 180-out would be the advancer mechanism. The rotor can be 180-out if you've dissassembled it.

Also if you've taken the valve cover off, and it's a hyvo type chain with chain guides in the valve cover, you know you are supposed to release the chain tensioner before bolting on the valve cover, right? If not, you can do damage.

I don't think it has that type of chain/guide set-up, but I did everything by the book. It's got a manual adjuster someone had put on it that I put in after the valve cover was put on.

I zip-tid the cams to the chain and never moved it on them. Before I put the valve cover on, I spun the motor humpteen-dozen times by hand and all my marks lined up every time.

I felt like I did everything as I was suppossed to.

I initially was having what I believed to be an ignition issue, but had to make sure everything was squared away mechanically before diving into the electrics. I'm not looking forward to that, to say the least.

loudhvx wrote:

The right coil should have a black wire to it and the left coil should have a green wire to it.

I had it green right, black left. Is the red wire on top or bottom?

po boy wrote:

loudhvx wrote:

The right coil should have a black wire to it and the left coil should have a green wire to it.

I had it green right, black left. Is the red wire on top or bottom?

Not sure, but it really shouldn't matter. Some coils had a little plus (+) and negative (-) by each terminal. In that case you would put the red wire on the (+), but I don't think it should matter much even then.

The reason for cam chain tension after the valve cover is the valve cover pushes down on the cam chain making it even tighter when you bolt the cover down if you already have it tensioned. Usually, if that is the case, the manual will have a warning somewhere to say to relaease chain tension before installing the cover. The 750-4 had that setup, I thought. I think even the later 650-4's had it, but I can't say for sure. Someone with more 650/750 experience might know better. The way to tell is if the cam chain had idler pulleys at the top of the head or not. If no pulleys, then it uses a guide in the valve cover.

I put the reds on tops and it fired up sweet.

Now, I've been thru this thing from front to back. It runs even sweeter now that the valves are in spec.

Unfortunately, the original issue I tore into it over to begin with is still present, but not quite as bad. I'd tried sealing the carb boots to the head better, and that might account for some of it being not quite as bad doing the cutting out.

Gonna look for a few different things in the morning.