Need some help Highbeam/signals

Hello guys,

I am currently restoring a 1982 kz550 LTD into a cafe racer.
I recently naval jellied the entire thing, 4-1 MAC exhaust, clubman, the whole deal. Replacing sprockets and chain this week.

Today I tried to replace the turn signals because the old turn signals would not work with my clubmans.

I took out the headlight housing and replaced the side screws with mini turnsignals/running lights.

I go to hook it up, black to the ground...blue to main...grey to flash...

Well when I hooked it up and started the bike all the lights came on and there were no flashing, even the tail turnsignals illuminated. So I figured I tried the highbeams also just for the hell of it. Well the high beam wont turn on it just stays at the regular beam but a little darker.

I then proceeded to un hook the front turn signals to see if I mighta messed up the wiring. After that when I turn the turn signals on without the front ones attached, The back right stays on constant and the back left does not illuminate but you can hear a clicking noise as if the relay is trying to make it work. Hibeam still doesn't work.

And that is where I am at now, any suggestions? Thanks!

I don't know nor have the KZ550 electrical diagrams so going off theory alone here....

Question, are these L.E.D. turn signals?

If so, in my KZ900/1000 for example, these won't work without changing your turn signal relay due to LED low current consumptions.....

If not LED, are they the same wattage bulbs as OEM?
If not, same as LED in theory, not enough current draw.

In searching the web, either additional load resistors (load equalizers I believe is what they're calling them) is required if staying with stock relays or for ~ $12, go to auto part store and get a new flasher relay that is LED rated...

Now why you turn signal has 3 conductors is somewhat weird in itself, normally a two wire configuration....
Unless these have a secondary running light lamp in them or something similar....

+12Vdc switched from relay referenced to ground is all that is required... Normally speaking of course!

OMR

just did a quick google kz550 wiring diagram.... Already here in KZR zone.... :laugh:

Yup, these do have running lights....

www.kzrider.com/archive/images/public/img-1126756980.jpg

KZ conductor colors:
Green or Gray is your switched from control (L/R turn) +12Vdc thus turn signal relay....

Yellow Black is your battery ground with another solid black to frame ground...

Turn signal conductor colors:
black to the ground...blue to main...grey to flash...

Did they provide a wiring diagram or conductor description?

For T-shooting, leave black to ground and jumper one only, either blue or gray to battery +12Vdc should stay lit constant on...

or to the switched green/gray conductor... Should blink based on bulb/led...

Other than the common ground to the headlight, your turn signal installation should not have effected this....

OMR

Thanks OMR I am going to advance auto today to pick up the Tridon 552 relay. does anyone know if this one will work. And is it the same one for hazards (I know they are 2 but I didn't know if a different type of Hazard needed different types of relays?)

The bulbs are all non-led. The back ones already came on the bike I am replacing these current ones.

Do you think I may of knicked something in the wiring in the headlight to cause this, or perhaps break my highbeam?

Will keep you guys updated throughout the day after work.

Yeah but what wattage are the new bulbs is what you need to ask yourself....

Either way, I used the EP-35 for LED with no problems....

So I replaced both flashers... the one under the seat was pretty bad looking... It was crushed like a popcan. I also replaced the headlight with a h4. Now the head light/hibeam works perfect but I still don't have turn signals, when I turn on the bike, all the lights, (Front running, and rear turnsignals (even though they are not running lights) stay on. There is no turn signal action.


Also the horn does not work on my bike. So maybe I am thinking I have a bad connection somewhere with the wiring harness on the right side controls even though the highbeam switch still works? Or maybe the entire right side control is bad?

(Front running, and rear turnsignals (even though they are not running lights) stay on. There is no turn signal action.

OK, did you follow as previously mentioned?

For T-shooting, leave black to ground and jumper one only, either blue or gray to battery +12Vdc should stay lit constant on...

or to the switched green/gray conductor... Should blink based on bulb/led...

Also, which relay did you use and are you positive it's wired correctly or for lower current lamps/leds?

I Used the ep35 as you said to use, and I grounded the third prong. I do not think its a flasher issue anymore. I did what you said with trying just one at a time, it will just stay on constantly with both. I tried all possibilities with the wiring of the front turn signals.

I have a mechanic friend that said that since all the lights remain constantly on, even the rear turnsignal that there maybe a short somewhere with exposed wire touching the frame.

I told him I opened the headlight casing to do the work in there, and he said that one of those wires might be missing its insulation and causing a short. He wants me to trace each wire with a multimeter... This is going to take some time.

Just a simple quick test with the EP-35....

In applying the +12Vdc and ground, you should be able to see & hear the relay click on and off... In using a volt meter you should be able to see your meter deflections switching as well...

NOTE: Pending the digital volt meter, the timing may be to quick where all you'll see is the value changing, not the actual value itself... Meaning it won't switch and read 12Vdc on the display long enough for you to read it...

For T-shooting: This time work directly off the battery with alligator conductor jumpers... BATTERY +12Vdc and BATTERY ground directly to the relay...

So, with this in mind, leave the ground on your turn signal, apply the +12Vdc to the relay, then run a separate conductor/jumper from the relay (L) directly to the turn signal conductor, either the Blue or gray...

This way, your totally bypassing the harness assembly just to get the signal to work... Once accomplished, easier to find out why in harness isn't working....

thank you so muck OMR for all ur help... finally found the problem.... the main ground wire was severed in half under the gas tank.

Sweet.... There you go, welcome to the world of electrical/electronics....

When I do electrical repair on my 82 GPZ1100 B2 I use the heatshrinkable crimp splices sold at www.waytekwire.com and www.delcity.net They also sell a non adhesive harness tape for bundle repairs along with different diameters of heatshrink tubing and tools.