shocking from plug boots

So I have come to the conclusion that my #4 cylinder is not firing correctly, when I touch the spark plug boot on the plug, I feel it shocking me through the boot and on my other hand (usually on the clutch). Do I just need to give it a liberal dose of di-electric grease or what?

I think that is normal.

I dont think that what you describe should be happening. It sounds like you are shorting out and this could be the cause of your problem. Probably best replace the plug cap - they are cheap - or spray the cap and plug lead with WD40 which will repel moisture. While you are at it clean the ceramic part of the plug where it fits into the plug cap.

You shouldn't be getting shocked. I would replace all the plug caps and when you instll them, put some dielectic grease on the piece that connects to the spark plug. If there is moisture in there, shorts will occur.

Is it ok to use a resistor spark plug cap? Is that all that exist anyway and I just don't know? That is all that Z1 has as far as this goes. I'm looking at getting these type. I'm calling Jeff right now to get these details worked out. Thanks for the input guys.


www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=422

Buykawasaki.com lists:

CAP,SPARK PLUG"LD05F"

as the description for the spark plug cap for an '82 KZ550. That's the exact type in the link you provided (5k resistance is correct). Looks good to me!

I know I get the pee shocked out of me if I try to pull one of my non-resistor type caps with the bike running! :S

Like savedrider, I thought it might be normal to get shocked, but it doesn't happen with any other plug cap, and when I do pull of the cap and wire from #4, nothing changes, engine runs just like it did before, which tells me it isn't firing so great, if at all. When I pull any other plug wire, it stalls within 2-3 seconds. I have checked my plugs after a pull up to redline in second and they are all a very light grey, nearly white with stock everything, but I think #4 was always a bit darker. It may be different because it has been a while since I did that, but I do remember it was different from the other three cylinders.

scott - you are dead on your #4 cylinder bud...better check that out before riding it anymore. Start with the simple things.

Go ahead and pull off all your plug wires. Then remove the #4 plug, put it in the cap and lay it across the head. Hit the starter on the bike and look for a fat blue spark. If you don't have it, or have a yellow weak or intermittent spark start moving up the line. Chances are that cap is bad or not screwed on correctly.

You can always remove it and test resistance real quick. If it tests good trim 1/4 to 3/8 off the end of the wire and reconnect it.

If the #4 cylinder plug wire can be pulled at idle with no effect AND you can take the bike to redline and note that the plug is slightly darker than the others, this tells me a couple things...


ONE! The symptoms say to me that you may have something plugged in the pilot system where no gas is getting through the pilot jet... that cylinder ain't running...

TWO! You can get it to redline and the plug shows burn... if it wasn't running at all at higher speeds the plug would stay new and shiney.

Here is what I would do...

Remove petcock and clean fuel screen

Install inline filter(s)

Remove carburetors and remove float seat and check for crud under seat... clean as needed

Remove PILOT JET! Spray carb cleaner through the pilot circuit (use eye protections/gloves)

Clean the pilot jet - make sure you can spray carb cleaner through it.


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One of the above measures will very likely fix the problem you seem to be having delivering fuel at idle.

Yup, I had the same cylinder go dead on me and it ended up being a solid blocked pilot jet.

Also check the temp of each header pipe when the bike is idling, I bet #4 ain't quite as hot.