79 KZ650 BATTERYLESS AND BAREBONES

To the point,
I'm trying to go batteryless on my 79 kz650, i believe i have a permanent magnet style stator generator(alternator) with two yellow wires coming off of it. No brown wire off of the regulator rectifier. Points.
i got a 50v 10000uf capacitor and hook it up to the battery wires, to test but its not working i kick it doesn't do anything, hook the battery back up kick starts right up.

Am i doing something wrong or am i missing a step. generator has a flywheel not feild coil.

Also i want to go bareback style and ditch all the unnecessary wires, but i'll reply in the other thread.

These sounds very garbled just not sure i'm saying what i'm trying to say correctly.
thanks

You have to make sure none of the lights and accessories are on when trying to start, only the ignition. Try pulling the fuses for the lights and gauges.

Also, if you have a Dyna S ignition, it probably won't work.

only accesory that goes on is the oil light, but when i hook up the capacitor to try it, the oil light doesn't go on and when i pull the fuse i believe the fuse i pull maybe kills my coils, what exactly is a dyna s and how would i spot it.

nevermind no dyna s ignition, have points system which where changed a few months back, think i just need to kill the oil light, i'm assuming that when i plug up the cap turn the ignition on it instantly drains the cap. without the oil light even getting a chance to light up.

Man I'd love to go batteryless. Let me know how you make out.

How are you charging your capacitor to begin with? You may try starting it on the battery then hook up the capacitor and let it run a while and then try starting it again?
Mark

Found this checklist on the subject, interesting reading;

www.kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/battelim.htm

You don't charge the cap initially. Caps drain and charge very quickly.

During a kick, the alternator should charge the cap during the first half of the kick, then the second half should start the bike. With a battery, if the bike does not start immediately on the first kick, the bike may not be in good enough running condition to use a cap.

How do you have the lights disabled? As I said, even a tail light may be too much drain during the initial startup.

Can you push-start the bike? That will tell if it's a wiring issue or just a hard-start issue. If it won't start from a good push in 3rd gear, then it may not be hooked up correctly or the cap may be bad.

head light is off the bike for now, and have no tail light hooded up, the oil light is the only thing i can think of and i will be dismantling that today. as far as push start its a breeze any gear push starts right up kick starts right up. i did how ever try and charge the cap by touching it to the battery then when i connect it to the positive cable it sparks (this is without the bike being on). when i rewire i believe i may work out the kink or what not, but just in case i had bought two capacitors.

but here's a questioN, is there a particular brand to use as far as the capacitor i have one from JameCo electric here is the link:
www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet...CatalogDrillDownView

is this where i'm going wrong?

they were the only place that carried anything near the size capacitor i needed that was close to san francisco.

If it sparked, with the bike off, then something is draining the cap immediately. Like I said, caps don't hold much charge at all, but battery's do. You'll have to find what is draining the cap. That is likely what is stopping it from running on the cap.

You may have brakelight failure relays and sensors that may need to be disconnected. Also make sure the hazards or turnsignals are not somehow activated.

The problem could also be the reg/rec itself. You'd need an ammeter to measure the current drain on the reg/rec while the battery is connected (with the bike turned off).

The cap you bought looks ok. I usually like the ones with screw terminals. That price is pretty good too. I usually go with Sprague if you can afford it, but they cost more. If you get it working on the Jameco cap, you can always upgrade later (only for reliability purposes).

Okay end result:

batteryless was a go! fired up on the third kick consecutively time and time again. But bike was being shorted out by sparking from the points to the cover, which was in another thread.

But it now runs off of the caps, so i can order better ones to be housed permanently. but for $9 bucks it sure is working out pretty well.

So now i can rewire the bike and get rid of all the stuff i don't need. thanks for the help.

NICEONE wrote:

Okay end result:

batteryless was a go! fired up on the third kick consecutively time and time again. But bike was being shorted out by sparking from the points to the cover, which was in another thread.

But it now runs off of the caps, so i can order better ones to be housed permanently. but for $9 bucks it sure is working out pretty well.

So now i can rewire the bike and get rid of all the stuff i don't need. thanks for the help.

When you get it complete could you take pictures and post the entire method and parts you used?...Russ