Wiring an Acewell 2803AB

Happy New Year all you Kz-nuts. I have a quick question for anyone that has installed the Acewell speedo/tach computer.

I received the 2803 AB under the tree for Christmas. Is there a magic way to wire it up? The Acewell is grounded through its body. There is only one wire for each function i.e., left, right turn signal, oil, high beam, Neutral and hazard. The oil and Neutral will light if grounded but all the others need to be tied to 12V. Can I just use the existing wires +12Vdc that powers these lights now and tape up the ground? The ground will be through the meter. I know how to make it work but I was just curious as to how everyone else was wiring these up. Thanks a million

I got the 2853 Acewell and it had 4 plugs: 1) Single yellow wire for RPM's, 2) 4-prong plug for ground, +V-Switched, +V-full time, fuel sensor +V side, 3) 2-wire plug for the speedo sensor, 4) 6 wire plug for turn, hazards, neutral, high beam, oil.

I hooked up the oil, turn, high low, hazards, neutral the same as stock, and hooked the fuel indicator to the acewell and the other side to ground.

Other than that it was pretty straight forward. I hooked the yellow RPM wire into the green plug for the left coil so I didn't have an inductive sensor. The only problem I'm running into with that is picking the right number of sensors per revolution, it should be 1, but the resulting RPM's were too high. I am getting some resistor spark plugs to see if I can eliminate possible interference. When I get it mounted back up I will let you know how well it works.

Otherwise they are pretty straight forward to wire up. Though a not on the physical mounting, I built a plate that goes over the top of the stock speedo/tach mounts and then has a hole for the acewell to bolt to. I found that the acewell was tipped too far forward and I couldn't read it unless I tucked way down on the tank. So I bent the mount about 10-15 degrees and now it is good from sitting up to laying on the tank. Yours may be different.

KawiConvert,
Thanks for your reply. Did you cut into the existing harness where the indicator lights are in the old dash and just use the hot wire there to power the lights? What did you do for the brake light failure indicator? I guess a separate sealed panel mount light cut into the sheet metal on the new dash might work.

Oznative wrote:

KawiConvert,
Thanks for your reply. Did you cut into the existing harness where the indicator lights are in the old dash and just use the hot wire there to power the lights? What did you do for the brake light failure indicator? I guess a separate sealed panel mount light cut into the sheet metal on the new dash might work.

Kind of, I ran a new full time hotwire off the fused white wires that go to the ignition, then used the normal hot wire used to power the lights for the other lead. One keeps your information stored, the other runs the speedo.

For the other indicators, I cut out the plug they go through and used the plugs that come with the speedo. So there are only the disconnect plugs that came with the speedo.

Also, I removed the brake light warning failure indicator completely from the harness. I didn't expect to use it much being as I've never had a bulb burn out. Otherwise you may just cap it off or unplug it from the harness.

Convert, do you have any pics of this mounted?

kztee wrote:

Convert, do you have any pics of this mounted?

Here is a prior picture of the mounting before bending the mounting tab, countersinking the two 10mm bolts (and putting in flat head bolts) and cutting out the center section of my aluminum mount to accommodate the bent Acewell mount. So yeah, its a little different, but for the most part it is the same. Also, I am going to chrome the aluminum mount in an effort to match the Acewell.

Thanks for all the help. Now I need to figure out how and where to mount the reed sensor. I hooked the speedo up on the bench and used a function generator to input a 2MHz signal into the speedometer input and ran the odometer up to match the old one. The guys at the registry wont impound the bike now;)

That's the same unit (2853)I was looking for but in Billet Aluminum, unfortunately, no longer available.

Now I'm waiting for the 4000 series.... Some time soon, this year.

OMR

OMR, That gauge is really nice. It has some features that I wont ever use but nice anyway.

Oznative wrote:

Thanks for all the help. Now I need to figure out how and where to mount the reed sensor. I hooked the speedo up on the bench and used a function generator to input a 2MHz signal into the speedometer input and ran the odometer up to match the old one. The guys at the registry wont impound the bike now;)

You can get a cable that adapts to the speedometer drive off of the wheel. Mine took very minimal massaging and works fine.