Mega squirt users

Who here has converted to FI with a Mega Squirt system.

How long did it take you to get it converted?

How much did you spend $$?

One year and counting, not including the previous year searching for cheap parts.

Picking out parts for one bike out of all the parts I bought, figure around $200 so far. Wideband sensor and controller are going to boost it another $100 though.

As an example of parts buying, I now have:

3 GPz750 Turbo Throttle bodies.
1 GSXR 600 throttle body
2 81 GPz1100 throttle bodies (Lying eBay sellers).

Polaris snowmobile fuel pump.
GSXR fuel pump
GPz1100 fuel pump
ZX6 fuel pump (mistake, that one's for carbs)
88 Ford F150 external pump.

MegaSquirt I ver 2.2
MegaSquirt II ver 3.0

Assortment of thermisters.


I really need to get my bike together and install some of this stuff.


The MegaSquirt II ver 3.0 is actually for my car, it's a 92 Beretta with a 2002 Malibu 3100 in it. It was either use a MegaSquirt or cobble up a bunch of mixed parts to try and get it to work.

Man, I've started to post on this three times, and always got distracted. ADD, ya think? :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
OK. I'm on my second MegaSquirt, both MS 1 on version 2.2 boards. Yeah, the v.3 boards have lots of cool stuff, but they take up too much space, especially on a bike.
A MegaSquirt 1 unit on a v2.2 board will cost you about $200 to build. But that's the easy part. Here's a list of stuff you'll have to face, and it can get both time consuming and expensive.
Throttle body - I'm working on a bike that came injected, but you're gonna have to find throttle bodies that certainly won't "fit like a glove." All the way from what kind of fuel injectors you use to what kind of throttle positioning sensor to how you deal with your throttle cable, the throttle bodies can be a pita. Ask steel to help you figure out what works best, and what to avoid.
Injectors - I'm cheap. You can get Ford 19# fuel injectors on E-Bay for $50 or so for 8. The factory injectors for 1100 Kaws were in the 16.8# range, and were really at the limit of their capacity. However, both ends of the Ford injectors are different than the Kaw factories, so I had modding to do. Since the original injectors had barb tops, I had to make these injector blocks for mine.


You can also see the fuel block I made to mount an adjustable Mustang fuel regulator. Yeah, I could have done it easier, but the Mustang regulator was just sitting there on the bench, and I had a block of aluminum, so...
Also, because I'm using a tank off of a bike that wasn't FI, I needed to build in a fuel return. So there's another chunk of aluminum between the tank and the petcock so I had a place to plumb a return line. Don't find a pic of that, and the bike is back buried under all the stuff that couldn't be left out in the yard, so maybe next spring I'll get a pic of it.
Which, of course, brings us to the fuel pump. I've really liked the MSD 2225 pump, and it's about the same size as the one that came on my bike, and they go for about $120 now on E-Bay.
Then you need to figure out where you're gonna mount your intake air temp sensor, and what you're going to do about your engine temp sensor. I've come up with what I think is a cool solution for that. I'm using a variable resistor as a manual enriching device instead of a thermistor somewhere on the engine.
So, what I'm trying to say is that this is a serious project. It's not like buying a set of smoothbores, or putting on a different exhaust system. There's a lot of thinking through each step, because it's not something a hundred guys have already done before you. Each one of us is kind of making it up as we go along, and sometimes we go down the wrong trail and have to backtrack. So if you do it, don't expect to find a lot of advice, 'cause most of us doing this are almost as lost as you!!!!
How much is it gonna cost? depends on how many expensive lessons you have to learn! How long does it take? NOBODY KNOWS YET!!!!!!!:woohoo:
:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

What bike are you wanting to inject?
I have had my z650 running on megasquirt since late 2005, because no body was interested in the gpz Fi hard ware I managed to get the whole system for a good price

What I used:-

megasquirt 1 ver 2.2 running MSextra code Alpha-n with either the flyback board, peak and hold injector driver board or resistors ( because the old kawasaki injecors are Low Impedance)


'83 Gpz1100A3 throttle bodies, injectors, fuel rail, pressure regulator, tps and fuel pump. (kawasaki pump is great as it draws minimal power and is silent in comparison to my mates Buell pump :woohoo:)
$x z1000J carb rubbers (only because the TBs were to big to fit into the 650 ones)

2x car relays, fuse box and 2x ntc thermistors for IAT and CLT sensors.

Old laptop with a serial port
Palm 3C PDA
Techedge A03 Diy wide band

I found the fuel only pretty straight forward but the ignition was a real challenge !! Although my mate Arrtu has got this sorted out on his gsx1100 turbo. (I will be changing back to Ms controlling the ignition once I finish the GPZ900 streetfighter that I am starting to build in the new year)

cost is dependant on how good you are at finding a good deal, in my case most of the stuff was secondhand or DIY.

Time wise I believe you should be able to do it within a couple of month fairly easily if you run fuel only.

Yeah, Dave's right. My problem is that I'm playing with building a lot of things from scratch. And I'm also going with MegaSqirt 'N Spark for the ignition, and with a motorcycle that can be a REAL pita.
As an aside, I've found an optical Hall Effect sensor, and I'm making an aluminum wheel setup that will allow easy changes to wheel type (4-1, 6-1, 12-2, etc) until I find the most reliable setup. I remember Dave talking about the problem chasing the bugs in the ignition setup on another forum.

Hey, Dave! Good to hear from you. How IS your ignition setup coming?

I'm running a dyna s at the moment as house renovations stopped play but I should be able to get back into it soon ( Gpz900 build )
I believe the problem is not the toothed wheel number of teeth its the varying cranking speed when the bike is cranking on the starter due to the lack of flywheel inertia and the starter clutch ( especially when they get older slips a bit ) and the ecu freaks out because it cant sync properly. Second sensor seems to be the answer.
I'm looking forward to beating the ignition issue and the gpz is going to be injected as well

Are you switching to MS ignition istead of Dyna S. Is it better or do you like the challenge. I thought I had researched the topic but didn't remember seeing anything about a reluctor wheel. That is what you guys are refering too.

I believe the Ms ignition is better for a few resons
You can set the advance to whatever you want and not have to rely on the kawasaki mechanical advance
There are no parts that require maintenance, springs, throw out weights etc and also Im far to stubborn to just give up:P
But it will more than likely be more than a year away :ohmy:
Dyna S also uses a lot of electrical energy which can be a problem on an old bike with a lot of electronics added on.
I used a missing tooth wheel that I machined out of a steel chain sprocket with the right amount of teeth (12 in my case)and vr or hall sensors

jus1975 wrote:

Are you switching to MS ignition istead of Dyna S. Is it better or do you like the challenge. I thought I had researched the topic but didn't remember seeing anything about a reluctor wheel. That is what you guys are refering too.

Yeah, so far I've not come across anybody who has made the Mega Squirt ignition work on an old UJM (Universal Japanese Motorcycle, usually referring to an aircooled ohc 4) mostly because of the lack of space to fit a Ford 36-1 wheel! Dave and I are working on two different hypotheses for why we seem to have problems. I appreciate his point of view (low flywheel mass means too much variance in the rotational speed of the trigger wheel during start) but I'm inclined to believe that the issue is how big of a signal is coming off of a trigger wheel that's 50mm in diameter (compared to a ford 36-1 that's, what? 130mm?), and only 10mm wide, passing by a VR that's got a 30mm face (mine was from a GM distributor.) That's why I tracked down an optical Hall sensor, so it always gets the same strength of signal regardless of the mass and rotational speed of the trigger wheel. And, yeah, maybe I'll be back to work on it by next Summer. 'Course, for Dave, that's right now! (I'm in Kansas, he's in the Land of Oz. )

I haven't used a Megasquirt, but a few things spring to mind here.

1) You can use a GPz1100 ECU and a Powercommander 3 on any aspirated bike. Just choose the (high impedance) injectors you want to suit your engine size. The PC has the advantage that any Dynojet-equipped dyno centre can map it and is familiar with the software. The downside is it doesn't do ignition (as the Kawasaki ECU doesn't do it). For a turbo bike, just use the GPz750 turbo ECU.

2) You can fit a 36-1 wheel in. You will have to make it though, and a 36-2 wheel gives a stronger signal (36-1 is fine for cars, but bikes rev higher).

3) The "injector blocks" are nice but a bit unnecessary. You can machine off the top o-ring mounts and machine (or file!) barbs on the injector inlets. This is how RC do it if you buy new injectors from them. You can then use the existing fuel hose and rail off the GPz11/750 system.

4) The GPz1100 throttle bodies are 34mm compared to the turbo's 29mm....better to stick to the 1100 versions, on anything..

5) If you stick to the 11/7 Kawasaki system you have the luxury of tank/top triple mounted warning light and clock compatibiliy. Try that with your Megasquirt!

That's about it for now.

Oh yeah it's cooler to use 1984 tech to go FAST!! :laugh:

Yeah, the v.3 boards have lots of cool stuff, but they take up too much space, especially on a bike.

Nope, they're the same size, I just compared them to double check.


36 teeth times 10,000 rpm times 60 seconds equals 21,600,000, that's 21.6 mhz!
Give the poor processor a break and use a 12 tooth wheel


GPz1100 throttle bodies would be nice for my 750E project bike, but all three sets of 750 Turbo throttle bodies that I have were listed on eBay as GPz1100. I gave up

What :huh: :huh: :huh:
There are con men on ebay!!!
Its weird steve, you would think that gp11's would outnumber the 750 turbos by heaps, its probalbly all of Lorcan's mates unloading the smaller ones... Happy Christmas by the way