kz1000 hard starting on electric, ok on kick

I have a 79 kz1000 mk2 that is very hard to start on electric, but fires right up on the kick start. I know the diaphram peacock is faulty,, but I just put her on prime, pull up the choke, 1 or 2 kicks, bang!,, but no go on the electric. She seems to turn over fast enough,,any ideas??

ty02076 wrote:

I have a 79 kz1000 mk2 that is very hard to start on electric, but fires right up on the kick start. I know the diaphram peacock is faulty,, but I just put her on prime, pull up the choke, 1 or 2 kicks, bang!,, but no go on the electric. She seems to turn over fast enough,,any ideas??

Hello ty and WELCOME to KZr! We're glad you're here!

My KZ900 does the same thing without a good battery, fully charged. A failing battery that won't hold a full charge, or even a great battery without full charge, or a battery with low fluid levels, could exhibit those symptoms. I find it nearly impossible to service the battery without first removing it from the bike so the fluid levels are actually visible. And even then, out on the workbench, a light aimed through from the back side helps in seeing the levels. Would always use only distilled water to restore the levels, and don't over-fill. It's best to leave the levels a tad below the full line to allow for some fluid expansion during charging.

Would consider 2 amps as the maximum charge rate for these small motorcycle batteries, which is probably a little too high, but okay for an hour or two so long as the battery doesn't heat up. I much prefer using a 1 amp charger, especially when charging overnight. Other members may have better ideas about the most preferred charging rate and allowable durations.

And trusting whenever first starting the cold engine with choke ON, that the throttle is untouched while cranking it over, regardless of using kick or electric starter. Because the "enrichener circuit" is designed to function with the carb slides in the closed (down) position.

When using the electric starter, am guessing available battery power is being largely consumed by the electric starter, which deprives the ignition. When kick starting, much more of the battery power is available to the ignition (for a stronger spark at the plugs).

The peanut gallery has spoken. :lol:

Good Luck!

I'd check the wiring at the many and various connectors for corrosion. The battery terminals must be clean and tight along with the terminations at the starter solenoid and the engine ground cable.

Remove a sparkplug,ground it against the engine and using the electric starter check for a hot spark. If is is weak you are probably a candidate for the "Wired George Relay Modification" His website www.wgcarbs.com lists parts needed and how to bypass the aged wiring in the older Kawasaki's