Blown fuses, tip to diagnose

I was wondering how to check the headlight switch. My lights were always on and there is no on or off switch. I have auto or manual turn signal options and then I also have hi and low beam switch. I appreciate the quick reply. I did check my fuses for continuity and after the headlight went out I found the broke fuse and replaced it. I then replaced the regulator/rectifier which was the original culprit. Now I replaced the bulb and still have no light. thanks for any info.

I was also wondering if the reserve lighting device could be at fault for this trouble? any suggestions?

Wow I feel real dumb now. I tested a fuse and must have messed up some how. I replaced the fuse and the light works now. I must have misused my Ohmmeter.

Only check the fuses out of circuit as if they are in the circuit the reading will be biased by what is also connected.

The glass fuses may look o.k. or the fuse clips have a little corrosion on them,and removing and re-installing the fuse may have knocked the "crud" off the clip.

Still the best and really only reliable way to test a fuse is in circuit by testing voltage. You have 12v on one side, zero on the other you can be reasonably certain the fuse is open The reason I mentioned this is I went through the shorted wiring, blowing the headlight in my original post. One night I blew a 10a fuse, so I checked volts and knew which end was power, which was lights. Found no short so replaced the fuse and all seemed ok. The next day I ride 2 miles and have no headlight, so I replace the fuse and it instantly blows black inside. I was kind of happy about this as the short is definately there, now don't touch anything, get the ohmmeter out and check ohms to ground from the light end of the fuse. I measure around 1.5-2 ohms, leave the ohmmeter attached as I remove the headlight. Still the same ohms so seeing as the headlight is the only draw on this fuse I "know" I have a short in the wiring. Start wiggling wires ect and the short is constant. Finally after playing around with this a while I go to that black fuse and remove it only to find my short is now gone. I have 2 ohms on the power and open on the lamp end with the fuse removed. Gosh dammit to heck, this fuse has thrown me a curv. It checks OK even though it's blown black and I'm reading ohms through it and all the other lamps on other circuits. Of course by the time I figured this out, I'd played with every wire on the bike and I knew darn well the short was now gone so hence my "tip" to wire another headlight across the fuse to diagnose and all went smooth from there. Sorry for the longwinded story, but my black blown fuse still measures zero ohms.

Hello, I keep having the fuse problem I do not have the headlight issue anymore. The fuse that keeps blowing causes the bike to completely quit running. On the left side of the bike in the little fuse box on the side it is the top fuse of the three I have to keep replacing. I am not quite sure what that is but I need to figure out what is causing it. It is frustrating trying to keep up with the fuses that are blowing. Thanks for any input into what could be killing my bike.