KZ750 Twin - Anybody taken off the starter clutch before?

Hi,
Something in my starter clutch is screwed up on my 1978 KZ750 twin. I've tested the rest of the starter and everything else works fine, t

I've removed and installed a few 750 twin starter clutches, what do you want to know?

Hey I'm in the same boat. My starter clutch on my 78 twin is broken-- I wonder if I can just replace the springs or other parts or do I need to buy a used clutch- and if i buy a used clutch is there any way to test it before i put it on my bike?

thanks

1978 kz750 twin
atlanta

I have a problem starting mine too, here's a video of me trying to start it last night. It's a 76 KZ750. I also have a very hard time kicking it over as well. I usually end up pushstarting it, although now I think my clutch cable is going out so I can't push it anymore.

video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4247130303141479677

I'd like to know how hard it is to replace or if it's possible to fix it myself.

I disconnected the battery and plugs, took off the left side peg, shifter, and cover plates over the dynamo. According to the manual if I turn the rotor counter clockwise the sprocket, chain and starter should turn with it, when turning clockwise the sprocket and chain should not. I put a ratchet on the bolt holding the dynamo and slowly turned it each way several times and it does just what the manual says it should. The chain and sprocket turned with it ccw, and not at all cw.

jammor, yes you can replace the springs and rollers, and that normally fixes the problem.

Ashbane, same answer.

It's not to difficult to remove and replace it, unless the cover on the back has rotated and covered up the screws that hold the starter clutch to the rotor, then it's a real pain to rotate that cover back in place.

Here's a tip, the rear axle will screw into the rotor and act as a rotor puller. Screw it into the rotor as tight as you can possibly get it, then whack the end of the axle with a good size hammer with a good hard whack, it should pop right off.

The rotor is a taper fit on the shaft, as soon as you break the taper fit it's loose.

And Ashbane, try adjusting your clutch

The 750 twin will start easily with a kick if it's in tune, my 79 takes one to two kicks cold, half a kick warm.
I have converted mine to electronic ignition, I have an Accel coil, and I have done a "complete" tune up on it. A "complete" tune-up consist of adjusting the valves, rebuilding the carbs (if needed) syncing the carbs with a manometer, adjusting/replacing the points, and new spark plugs.

If you do get far enough into replacing the springs and rollers, take a really good look at the starter clutch itself. Mine was broken in all three places where the springs and rollers are located (the thinnest part). When I had pulled mine apart, I had just replaced the springs and rollers but that didn't help, I thought I had seen a "lip" inside where the rollers are. It wasn't until I took the clutch off the flywheel and looked athe back of it that I could actually see the three broken spots. Luckily I had a spare engine w/ a starter clutch on hand. Also highly recommend if you do remove the starter clutch from flywheel to loctite the three allen screws back in, you don't want those backing out on you. Pat

The whole sordid story of my starter clutch failures can be found here:
LINK

I have the same problem with my 1979 KZ 750. I was going to take the rear axle shaft out and use it to pound out the starter clutch as suggested here--but decided that this job should be left to someone more experienced. I can usually kick start my bike after two or three kicks (sometimes more). So, I just got used to it.

Writing from Appleton, WI
Doug Johnson
920 257-2529

You don't "pound out" the rotor, all you have to do is break the taper grip and it slides off easily. The rotor is on a tapered shaft, move that rotor .002" and it's free.