MINIMAL wiring without certain components. Lou?!

Okay, here's what I've got.

Bike is a KZ650-B2A.

I'm using electric start, but I've removed the entire front dash setup and turn signals.

Using rear turns still, and rear brake/tail.

I'm keeping the electric start, but I've removed the wiring to run the lamps through the ignition.

I want the entire circuit for the lamps on their own aside from everything else (one 10A fused circuit for + on front/rear lamps).

I want to wire in a main "kill switch" for the ground on the lamp circuit so all lights can be shut off at once with one rocker switch.

The rest of the bike I'd like to share what can be shared to get the wiring down to as little as possible.

If someone could draw up a specific diagram for specifically the charge/ignition system that would be awesome. I've got the starter system working, and I'm using the engine kill switch as the kill for the lamps, so that's all sorted out.

I just need the charging/ignition system simplified.

Thanks!

okay then.

caffcruiser wrote:

okay then.

Sorry, I'm kinda buried in many people's bike projects right now. Still haven't even had time to change the oil on my own bikes.
I can draw it up, but it may be a few days.

I need some info first.
Are you using the stock headlight?
IF not, are you still going to run high/low beam config?
If not, you could use the high/low beam switch as the light switch.

Will the light switch also kill the brake-light?
(I don't know if you are trying to go total stealth )

Normally, I don't switch the tail light... only the headlight, but it's not a big deal either way.

The kill switch gets power the same place as the starter circuit, so it is wired positive. It can't be used to switch the ground for the lights, if you are going to use the stock starter circuit. You could use it to feed positive power to the lights, if you want, but you'll just have to reconfig the wires different from stock, and of course the power to the coils will have to feed directly from the ignition switch.

I'm not sure how far away from stock appearance you want to go, but an aftermarket car ignition switch will give you the option of a lights-on or lights-off operation.

Also, I'm not sure why there is a 78 650 B2 and a B2A. What is the difference? I ask because 78 was a year for a major change in the charging system. Does your alternator cover have three phillips head screws in a triangle shape? Do you have a combo regulator/rectifier, or are they seperate?

Sorry Lou, that "okay then" wasn't directed at you.

I have the late 78, combo reg/rect unit.

I'm running an H4 headlamp from a European Harley Davidson.

I figured I'd just run the power for the entire light circuit through one fuse (head and tail/brake/turns on the back) and give them all one common ground, with a switch. Yup, for "stealthiness".

I deleted the function of the "kill switch" so there's nothing wired to it at all. It's just a blank switch. That's why I kinda figured I'd run the ground through it, allowing me to "kill" the lights with that switch by opening the ground circuit. I *think* that will work.

I've already got the bikes stock switch on here, but I removed all but the white and red wires for the starter setup, and the brown wire, cause for some reason I think I should leave it. Basically it's a 2 position switch right now.

Which terminal on the ignition switch goes "out" to coils?

According to the diagram, and from what I remember, the power for the starter button is the same lug as the power on the kill switch. Even though you no longer use the kill switch for the ignition, there is power there for the starter button. They share a common point so I don't think you can seperate the kill switch from 12v. But that doesn't really stop you from doing what you want to do. You would just use the kill switch to feed power to the light fuse, and from there feed the hi/lo switch and the tail. and the turns if you want, but since they are already switched, it may be an unnecessary redundancy and will also put more current through the kill switch.

How about this:
The ignition and brake light and turns feed from the ignition switch directly.
The ignition switch also feeds the starter button/ kill switch. The kill switch feeds the fuse for tail and hi/lo beam switch which feeds the headlight.
The reg/rec combo is wired directly from alternator to battery via starter relay. (As is stock, if I recall.)
No horn?
No Dyna ignition?

caffcruiser wrote:

Which terminal on the ignition switch goes "out" to coils?

we're going to reconfig the ignition switch so you double up on the contacts to get more power/reliability. I'll show it in the diagram.

I should probably have mentioned this...

I'm using GSXR controls... so I've got two switches in the right housing..... one 2 wire switch for the starter button, and one two wire switch for the engine kill. They are two completely independant switches. lol

Would have been helpful info I'm sure.

Oh, and no dyna, no horn.....

Here's one with 4 optional switch placements for the kill switch to control the lights.

Here's what you might have to do if the kill switch can't handle the 10 amps of the lights.

Thanks Lou.

The switch WILL handle the power for the lamps. Tested and passed.