Can someone explain how to set points gap and set timing

I have been waiting on my clymers and haynes manuals to arrive and they have yet to arrive. I need to get my timing set right and set the points correctly. Could someone please explain the process for me? I have a 74 Z1 900 with a 73 engine. I turned the crank until the points started opening and put the feeler guage between them at .014, then tightened them down. I have no idea how to set the timing on it.

jdsmithinc wrote:

I have been waiting on my clymers and haynes manuals to arrive and they have yet to arrive. I need to get my timing set right and set the points correctly. Could someone please explain the process for me? I have a 74 Z1 900 with a 73 engine. I turned the crank until the points started opening and put the feeler guage between them at .014, then tightened them down. I have no idea how to set the timing on it.

Each points set is held by two screws to a back plate. Each back plate is held by two screws (through slotted holes) to the round mounting plate. The round mounting plate is held by three screws (through slotted holes) to the engine case. A cam fits through the advancer. The heels of the points ride the cam to open and close. A little oil soaked felt pad lubes the cam so the heels don't wear out so fast.

1st -- Adjust gaps -- Do this separately for each points set. Dress point contacts if needed to minimize pitting by using a point file or fine sandpaper pulled through between the contacts. Clean the contacts. Turn crankshaft clockwise using 17 mm wrench to widest points opening and adjust gap separately for each set of points at FSM spec (eg., KZ900 is 0.3-0.4mm or .012-.016 inch). Each points set has two base screws to very slightly loosen thereby allowing movement to open or close gap, then retighten after setting gap. The widest gap happens when the heel is resting on the highest part of the cam. At this stage nothing but the gap has been adjusted. But this is important because proper gap affects the subsequent timing procedure. And other screws have remained tight.

2nd -- Set Timing -- Each points set has two mounting screws and pry slots which can be used with strobe light (after slightly loosening the two mounting screws) to align the respective F marks with the timing mark. But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel far enough to allow correct adjustment, then loosen the three mounting plate screws and move the mounting plate. Usually, the round back plate affixed with screws at center of slots is a decent starting position, and often doesn't need to be relocated from that position.

3rd -- Tighten and recheck --Tighten all screws and recheck timing with strobe light.

Also, check to assure proper operation of the advancer unit. If removed for cleaning and lubing, be sure the cam unit is replaced correctly and not 180 degrees off.

Also good to have a fan blowing onto the cylinders while setting the timing. Dynamic timing is done while the engine is running. I prefer using a strobe-type timing light (Z1E has a good one) which also allows seeing the advancer unit move forward and backward when changing rpm. Static timing with engine off, using a light bulb or ohmmeter, isn't as accurate as dynamic timing with a strobe light, but may suffice to at least get the engine running so it may then be timed dynamically.

Good Luck!

Thanks a lot for that. I will be setting it tomorrow and I will let you know how it goes. From what you are saying it isnt much different than setting points and timing on a car.

I'm just about to start in checking my timing and did a search. Came up with this thread, and just have to say thanks to Patton for the excellent description. This really helped a lot.

Thank you very much!!!

It has been 25 years since I had a points fired bike but I used to set the points gap with a dwell meter. More accurate than feeler gauges. Sadly I forgot what the dwell for a 73 engine is. I may have it written down in my 73 factory manual. I will look when I get home....chris3