Anyone ever used a Dyna 20000 DDK2-1C ignition on a 1982 Gpz1100B2?

I’m trying to install a Dyna 2000 ignition in a 1982 Gpz1100. It won’t fire the spark plugs at the appropriate time to start the engine. I’ve tried two different modules and neither work. I set the timing at 40, 38 and 35 deg. BTC. I’ve tried all advance curves. All voltages test properly and the Dyna 2.2 ohm coils start the bike just fine when using my stock pickup coils and IC igniter with a ballast resistor. The first module fired at about 65 deg. BTC, at the trailing edge of the D on the Dyna rotor. The second module fires at the number 40 on the rotor, which is about 50 deg. BTC. No engine will fire at that angle as there is insufficient compression. Has anyone ever successfully used the Dyna 2000 DD2K-1C ignition on a 1982 Gpz1100B2?? It seems to me that this ignition is to replace a points ignition, and not an upgrade to an electronic ignition.

Actually, I'm told that my test was wrong. In test mode, the plugs spark at 40 deg. Raymond at Dynatech thinks it's me. I'm certain I wired everything correctly. And I don't understand how it knows to fire at 15 deg. as the magnet crosses the pickup coil at 40 deg and then sends a spark signal.

I just put one on my LTD. One thing I'm not clear on from your post, did you adjust the pickups or not? Also, are you using suppression wires?

I think the unit has many advantages over the stock electronic ignition, sorry you're having trouble with yours.

Yes, I'm using the suppression wires. I've given up and am sending it back. I've tried everything. I've also looked on the web, and made several phone calls, but no one has installed it on a 1982 Gpz1100. Several say they will, but I see no actual installs. Went through it again tonight, just to be absolutely sure. Then connected my old IC igniter and pickup coils to the Dyna coils, and once again, it fired right up. I intend to get their 3 ohm coils and notch the stock plate so I can retard the timing to about 38 deg. Hopefully this will eliminate the ping and resolve the occasional (after first started) starting problems.

Howard, I'm curious to get the unit back and try it on one of my bikes to see if it does have a problem. What settings did you have the unit set on?

As to it fitting a GPZ - the GPZ's use exactly the same crankshaft as all the 81 and up KZ1000's and 1100's - and the Dyna 2000 does work on those bikes - we've sold plenty of units for those bikes, and I'm sure Dynatek has sold hundreds and hundreds of them.

I'm not sure how you are statically timing the bike, I just use their red timing light in the module to roughly set the timing, then use a timing light once the bike is running to adjust.

These units use an electronic advance - so you would expect the crank pickups to be well ahead of the actual spark timing to allow for the maximum electronic spark adjustment.

What happened when you attempted to run the bike?

As we discussed on the phone, I statically set the timing to 40, 38 and 35 deg. per the instruction manual by lining up the timing marks and moving the pickup coils counter-clockwise until I see the red LED illuminated on the Dyna 2000 module. We also discussed the possibility that the EFI system needs to get a signal via the stock rotor, IC igniter and ECU, and since my bike is fuel injected and the stock pickup coils and igniter ware eliminated with the Dyna 2000, this may be why this system does not work on my bike. I also posted another thread on this forum asking if anyone knows how the EFI gets its signal to inject fuel and I left a message with Larry of Dynatech asking if this could be the cause as well, and if he is certain that the Dyna 2000 will work on bikes with EFI. When I try to start the bike with the Dyna, it will slightly sputter very briefly on the 1st attempt, but then will just crank over and never start.

Now that I know what I’m looking for, my bike maintenance manual shows a 3p (3-wire) connector from the IC igniter that has a black, green and red wire. The red wire goes to the main/fuel pump relay. The green and black wires go to the main control unit relaying the engine speed. Since this is removed when using the Dyna 2000, the fuel pump relay doesn’t get a signal to pump fuel and the ECU has no idea that the engine (speed) is running. Ughh!!! I knew this ignition wasn’t designed for my bike. I was certain that I wired it correctly and while my first suspicion was that the engine was receiving a spark at the wrong time, my second was that the IC igniter sent signals vital to the engine running and that its removal was causing my bike not to start. I don’t see a solution, but I’m interested in suggestions as Raymond at Dynatech says that he installed it on a 1983 Gpz.

I figured out how to get it to work. If the main/pump signal is tied high (12V) via the same switched +12V signal to the ignition coil primary, this will enable the fuel pump relay. The green & black wires go from the ‘trigger (other) end’ of the ignition primary to the ECU. If these signals (white & blue in the Dyna circuit) are fed back to the ECU, it will now know the engine speed. I'll know for certain when I wire it up tomorrow, but from examining the wiring diagram in my service manual, this would do it. All of these signals can be fed from the ignition coils via the disconnected IC igniter connector that connects back to the fuel pump relay (red) and ECU (black & green) with three wires and female spade connectors.

Turns out, I was right all along. This whole time I couldn’t understand how the bike ‘knew’ where to fire on startup. It fired at 40 degrees as I said and I know that an engine can’t start at 40 deg. The two primary wires fed back to the ECU send a signal where the rotor is at startup, and the bike starts. It also turns out that the fuel pump was not the issue. If I wire the fuel pump relay it stays on, which is incorrect, so I removed that connection. The only ‘problem’ now is that the tach doesn’t work, but I believe I have the answer to that also. I disconnected the drive circuitry of the tack and wired the 2000 directly to the meter. This is incorrect. I believe I need to wire the tach as it was, and then feed the 2000 green wire to the same tach connection where the IC igniter was.

Actually, the yellow Dyna 2000 wire goes where the black tack circuit input is, behind the tachometer. Now the tach works as well.

Awesome job, Howard; so it's a runner now? Thanks for posting so much info for the next searcher!

Well yes and no. I'm not out of the woods yet. The ping and occasional starting problems are gone, but no matter where I set it, it loses power at full advance, between 5000-6000 RPM. I've tried 40, 37.5 and 36 BTC and curves 1-5. I'm working with Dynatech on this, but I think this module might have a problem. Below 5K it runs great and this never happened with the stock ignition.