Wiring for Kill Switch

Does anyone know off the top of their head what wire needs to be interrupted when installing a tether kill switch? I installed one many years ago and I'm thinking it's the brown wire in the headlight shell, but the wiring schematic doesn't seem to back up that theory. I remember it was in the headlight shell for sure, but not sure which wire. Anyone?

I am not sure what a tether kill switch is but the point of a kill switch is to break the continuity of the hot wire going to your ignition coils. On the MKII, trace the pink (or faded red) wires back from the coils to where they plug into connectors coming off a single wire. It think this wire will be yellow/red. You need to put the switch inline with the yellow/red to kill power to the coils. You can also pick this wire up as it comes out of the kill switch in your right switchgear. It runs in the big bundle of wires that goes to a major connector that connects up in the steering stem neck with a matching connector from the main harness. This info relates to a situation where you are still using your kill switch. If you want to put the "tether kill switch" inline before the kill switch, tap the wire that comes off your ignition switch and goes INTO the kill switch. Can't recall what color but I don't think it will be brown on your MKII (if that is the bike being asked about).

When I installed the tether kill switch on my 1000 I put it inline with the kill switch as WG suggested. I don't remember the wire color but it was easy to wire up and works fine.

Later, Doug

Thanks for the advice. Looking at the schematic, I thought the red/ylw wire would be best, but I don't think I had it installed there before. I was hoping to get a confirmation on the brown wire, but that doesn't make sense, so maybe my memory has COMPLETELY gone away now. Afterall, I've had 4 kids since wiring that last switch and most of my brain cells have been lost.

By the way WG, a tether kill is just a switch that attaches to the rider and trips if he falls off, for racing applications.

I remember the first switch I got many years ago was the type that closed when activated (for dirt bikes to ground the ignition) and it was causing blown fuses. As you mentioned, this needs to go in line with the coil supply and needs to be closed when running and will simply open up when activated. Just wish I knew why I'm thinking brown wire...:S :huh: :whistle: