Coil relay mod - No Difference

So I completed the famous coil-relay modification as per wiredgeorge's instructions at: www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_con...view&id=12&Itemid=26

I hear this modification typically gets great reviews but after going for a test run I noticed I had the same very nice bhp and torque that I had before the mod. I am using a four prong relay off an old junker yamaha xs850. I was confused about the step entitled, "power wires to coils #87." Here it says that I should attach crimp-on 'eyes' at the end of the Y. I took this to be a typo and installed a twin female bullet connector into which the pink wires (one from each coil) plug into. Is this a mistake? Even using a new relay from the auto parts store I am unable to achieve 12V to this female connector - I suspect this is because of the electrical drain from all the lights. Anybody have an idea whats going on??

I don't really understand what you are describing. First thing you should do is check the voltage at the battery. There are plenty of threads describing how to test the battery and charging system. You should be able to get pretty close to same voltage at the coils that you have at the battery. If you can't acheive that you either have bad wiring or you did not do the coil mod correctly.

Sorry for the confusion. Basically my question is: (1) whether or not we should actually be installing loops or "eyes" in the "Power Wires to Coils #87" step and (2) do these connectors (Ys or bullet connectors)clip into the pink wires that power the coils.:blink:

The #87 lug on the relay suggested in the tech tip is the power out to the coils. If you attach this power to the pink wires going to your coils, it serves the purpose. You said you could tell no difference in performance before/after the mod. You stated, "I had the same very nice bhp and torque that I had before the mod. " If you had nice bhp and torque, why bother to do the mod? What were you expecting to happen? Did you take voltage readings at your coils prior to the mod and then after?

Kz1ooo wrote:

...after going for a test run I noticed I had the same very nice bhp and torque that I had before the mod...

I did this mod on my bikes *because* I have weak spark and fouling plugs. All this mod does is *restore* good spark to bikes with crappy wiring, by effectively avoiding that crappy wiring. It is not intended to *enhance* performance, just restore spark.

...I am using a four prong relay off an old junker yamaha xs850. I was confused about the step entitled, "power wires to coils #87."...

I can see why that might be confusing. The "#87" is clearly indicated on aftermarket relays you buy off the shelf. In your case, the "power wires to coils" should connect to whatever the relay power output is.

Thanks everyone. Although I can't feel the difference, after going for a high speed second run (using the original wiring setup) on an already warm bike and checking the plugs they were noticably more sooted than the the first test run with the modificationl. I would expect that if there is a time when the plugs are likely to get the most blackening it is when the bike is first started when it is cold and the choke is on. Therefore, they get less sooted at high speed on a warm engine when the engine is running most efficiently...Only a guess though.

Kz1ooo wrote:

Thanks everyone. Although I can't feel the difference, after going for a high speed second run (using the original wiring setup) on an already warm bike and checking the plugs they were noticably more sooted than the the first test run with the modificationl. I would expect that if there is a time when the plugs are likely to get the most blackening it is when the bike is first started when it is cold and the choke is on. Therefore, they get less sooted at high speed on a warm engine when the engine is running most efficiently...Only a guess though.

Too high fuel level in float bowl could cause the symptoms as described.

Kz1ooo wrote:

...I would expect that if there is a time when the plugs are likely to get the most blackening it is when the bike is first started when it is cold and the choke is on. Therefore, they get less sooted at high speed on a warm engine when the engine is running most efficiently...Only a guess though.

Correct.

I'm starting to wonder about this relay you used....

if the relay mod is wired correctly and it didn't make a real improvement on your running condition you may still have a carb/jetting problem.or..

do you have electronic ign. or points and condenser ?

setting points is a art in itself

I am confused about the "starter relay" bolt connection. My manual shows the locations of a starter solenoid and the actual motor. Id be delighted to see images where all of the connections have been made. I have made several search attempts.

It probably refers to a good ground connection as the mounting bolt for the starter relay(solenoid) or even the battery Negative(-) terminal will do.

For a light or relay to work,you need a good flow of current from one side(-) to the other(+).

A relay is nothing more than a remote control switch only having a coil to move the electrical contacts when it's energized.

More information:

www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_do_i_check_a_relay.htm

calvin17d wrote:

I am confused about the "starter relay" bolt connection. My manual shows the locations of a starter solenoid and the actual motor. Id be delighted to see images where all of the connections have been made. I have made several search attempts.

KZ900?

Including information about bike year and model may elicit better responses. And it's easy to put in your signature where it will automatically appear in posted messages.
When done, the signature information appears in all posts, past and future. And may be changed as often as desired.

Here's how to do it:
Click here > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=8&id=382004#382317

Good Fortune!