Will the Z1 starter solenoid work on my 550?

Z1E has this one for sale:
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2133

and it looks identical to the one I just took off my bike. The power wire has come out of the coil, so it's FUBAR'd. The other day it wouldn't start using the electric start, but bump starting it is fine. The stealership is going to want around $70USD for an OEM piece, where Jeff et al. want $35USD for an aftermarket one..

It looks really really similar..I'd venture a 'same' even.

Anyone used the solenoid from Z1E before?

I can't see any reason it wouldn't work. All starter solenoids are just a simple relay, put 12v across the 2 small leads to energize the relay. The only difference could be the style of connectors on the wiring, mounting ect. That being said, if the stock Kawasaki is only double the aftermarket part in price I think you'd be better off going Kawasaki. Z1 does not mention who built that one they sell, but I'd wager to bet it's made in a country that starts with a "C" and ends in an "A"

it should work fine,hell you could make a ford solenoid work in an emergency!

Aight..I'll order one in the morning - after checking to see if my local shop has an aftermarket solenoid in stock. It's to the point where the solenoid was at least clicking the other day, but now it's not making a single noise when I hit the starter button.

That's kinda bothering me too - because I don't even get a spark when I touch the battery cable to the starter motor cable (the two connected to the solenoid usually). I don't know what that means exactly though..

thanks guys.

Post edited by: pyxen, at: 2007/06/13 23:18

Tim, What it means when you bridge between the two main poles on the solenoid and get nothing is that either the battery is dead or the starter isn't working.

The main difference between solenoids is their shape and the way they mount. Most any can be made to work IF you can get them bolted somewhere. The main difference between a Kaw solenoid and one from another manufacturer is that the Kaw has a GROUND WIRE (black/yellow) hanging off it that will generally connect with the regulator ground (as I recall). I use a Suzuki solenoid on one of my bikes as it mounts pretty much the same way as the original but it didn't have the ground wire... all you have to do is wrap a wire around one of the frame grounds and put a connector on it and attach it to the ground wire off the regulator as a ground is a ground.

Again, if you bridged the poles on your solenoid and got nothing, charge the battery and figure out if the battery is the problem.

On your old solenoid, the wire that triggers the solenoid is generally soldered to a connection point on the body of the solenoid and it doesn't go through some hole to attach to the inside. You may be able to re-solder the thing back in place if it pulled loose.

yeah if you get nothing when you go directly from battery to starter id have the battery load tested.did you pull in the clutch when you jumped across solenoid?some bikes have that safety switch on clutch lever;)

RonKZ650 wrote:

I can't see any reason it wouldn't work. All starter solenoids are just a simple relay, put 12v across the 2 small leads to energize the relay. The only difference could be the style of connectors on the wiring, mounting ect. That being said, if the stock Kawasaki is only double the aftermarket part in price I think you'd be better off going Kawasaki. Z1 does not mention who built that one they sell, but I'd wager to bet it's made in a country that starts with a "C" and ends in an "A"

Canada? :blink:

Cambodia??? Croatia??? Cuba???

peoples republic of canada?scrapper probably delivered it!

Nope..I didn't have the clutch in, I'll try that when I head home. I didn't think of that..

I know the battery is A-ok, cause everything runs beautifully when I've got 'er going, and I get 12.35ish volts at the solenoid when I measure it.

I'm going to try soldering the wire back onto the solenoid - can I solder it to the outside, or does it have to connect to the coil of wire on the inside ? I was thinking about dripping some solder down the small tube they've got placed in there, and sticking the wire back in before it hardens..makes sense to me ! :lol:

I really hope I don't have to bother with the starter motor itself.. at least I can take it out from the top, and don't have to split the cases for that..right? :S

We're pumping out some good stuff from the People's Republic of Canada these days! You should see what we get for neoprene moose antler covers on the open market! :silly:

It won't make a difference whether the clutch is pulled in or not. When you bridge from the battery direct to the starter, it has nothing to do with the trigger circuit for the solenoid. You essentially are not using the solenoid at all... just direct from battery to starter. The clutch interlock is a big loop that is closed with a switch on the left mirror perch. When the switch closes, it closes a loop for the starter button. Since the starter button isn't part of the battery POSITIVE to starter connection when you hot jump the solenoid (bridge hot direct to lug on solenoid where battery cable is), pulling the clutch lever in will make no difference.

You may have a wonderful battery but I would get it load tested or at least buy an inexpensive hydrometer. If you find the cells are NOT sulfated and check good, then the problem is with your starter/starter clutch or the connection to the starter. Load testing the battery is never a bad idea as you can easily detect a dead or dying cell. BTW: You will pretty much get 12 volts out of a dead'r than a doornail battery. If you want to test this theory, get a flashlight battery that is shot/worn out/used up... weeeeell, dead'r than a doornail. Measure the voltage on it. It will be pretty much what the batter is rater for... just doesn't have any oomph left in it (I think the oomph would be called current which can only be measured in a load test). You can't test a dry cell battery but you can test a wet cell by checking the specific gravity of the juice in the cell... That is the hydrometer thing... one way or the other, MAKE SURE the battery is healthy. And even brand new batteries will go bad!

What about an AGM battery? I've got a sealed one..can this happen to them?

I tried to solder it back together - but it just didn't work out. Too small, too restricted. Looks like it was an after-market one anyways, as the trigger/ground wires were spliced onto it.

So if I don't even get a spark when I touch the battery wire to the starter wire, could that be a bad ground somewhere? Could it mean that the wires to the starter motor itself are bad? If so, that means removing the carbs and airbox, and the rear-left engine cover..right?

I need a second bike, so I can keep riding when this one's giving me trouble, and vice versa!