Where to start - no electric

Hello all,

I was riding my 1977 KZ1000 last winter, and the ignition coil for 2&3 started to ooze something out of it. The bike quit, and I brought it home.

Finally replaced the ignition coil last night, and installed a new battery.

When I turn the key, I get nothing. I hooked it up to a battery charger for a few hours, and the lights, guages and turn signals would work, but not nearly enough to turn it over. Kick starting isn't firing it up either. Once I removed the charger, there was not enough power to turn on the lights again.

Where would you recommend I start looking for the problem?

I don't know much about the electrical system on the bike, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Hows the starter solenoid doing? Is it passing enough juice through to the coils?

What colour was the oozing stuff? Is there anything in coils that would ooze out?

The starter was working fine before it quit.

The oozing material was a dark yellow/orange and smelled like burning plastic or insulation.

I can go buy an electric tester today to check some things, but honestly don't know what I'm looking for.

The bike has sat for six months.

The stale gas in the carbs needs to be drained. It wouldn't hurt to replace the fuel in the tank, either.
Maybe the carburetors have become due for a tear down and clean out.

You indicate a new battery, but even new batteries usually do better if they are charged for some time before being put into service.

You can pull the points cover, and rotate the engine until a set of points is closed, turn on the ignition switch, and use a screwdriver to verify coil activity by opening the closed points and listening for a spark pop at the cylinder head. Rotate the engine 180 degrees and test the other side. No pop means no spark.

When these things are in correct operation, the engine should start instantaneously.

Post edited by: KaZooCruiser, at: 2007/06/08 11:04

There isn't any way for a coil to ooze stuff unless cracked. If it is cracked, it WILL short when it is damp out. The ooze material is winding insulation that is melted.

OK... you probably figured some of this out. I would replace both coils... First thing to do is verify the battery. Top off the cells with distilled water (to the line around the battery), charge the battery, and check each cell using a hydrometer. This is a little eyedropper type deal with colored balls on the inside. You draw in battery fluid and if any balls don't float, the cell is sulfated and you should get a new battery.

To charge a battery, use a low-amp trickle charger and charge for 12 hours. the trickle-charger should be one amp or less... buy a MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC tricle charger. Once you have he battery sorted out, you can look for other charging problems but don't try it before as you will only waste your time.

I've got new, charged up battery and the bike started fine. (Turns out the shop I bought the battery from didn't put any acid in it)

Took it for a ride, and it had no power. Brought it home and tested the 1&4 spark plugs, no spark. The 2&3 are the only ones firing.

I thought my next step would be to check the voltage going to the 1&4 ignition coil, which I haven't replaced yet. Does anyone know what voltage I should be looking for, or if there is a better way to check to see if it's the bad part?

Thanks,
-Matt
-Madison, IN

The shop didn't put acid in the battery? You pay these guys? Bwhahahaha See our "coil repowering" article on our website www.wgcarbs.com under "wg's Tech Stuff Index".

Yes, believe it or not it's the only shop in a 50 mile radius that had a battery to fit.

I checked the voltage to both ignition coils, and they are both getting around 13 volts.

Again, I tried to visually check for a spark on the 1&4 spark plugs, and didn't see anything. When I pulled them, they were not wet. The exhaust on the two sides were not as hot as the middle two either, which makes me believe that they aren't going like they should.

Is there a scientific way to verify they aren't firing correctly, or is a visual check sufficient to rule the ignition coil bad. I don't want to replace more parts without knowing for sure.

Thanks.

mbosma wrote:

Yes, believe it or not it's the only shop in a 50 mile radius that had a battery to fit.

For future reference, if not already done, might check with local AutoZone (website info shows 2450 Michigan Rd, Madison, IN 47250 (812) 265-8355)

Am happy with several different model motorcycle batteries purchased fom AutoZone (including maintenance free style). Usually had to order and wait a day or so. And prices were reasonable.

if you have a timing light you can out it on each wire and see if it has fire and if it is constant or not.
also does the bike have points, if so check them .
it may not hurt to pull the carbs and do a quick clean just to make sure nothing is gummed up

Thanks, but I don't have a timing light (yet).

Is there a way to check with an analog multimeter? I can check volts and ohms.