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Replacing Coils+Ballast Resistors
- neilage66
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I was excited to try her after sitting for over a decade (found some well-roasted peanuts in the Kerker silencer!) and I have to say the largest backfires I ever heard come from a bike were what I got...nearly blew the baffle out. :laugh:
I've got weak to no spark :pinch:
On to electrics:
Coil cylinder wiring order = L to R = 1-4-2-3
Coil primary ohms = 1.5
Coil secondary ohms = 15500-16000
Pickup coil resistance = 500 ohms/each pair
Stock heat range plugs (look great but old)
Plug Caps = 4-6K ohms with 2 intermittent (manual says 10K is normal, so...)
Tried to check ignitor but already had plug caps and wires apart and the test didn't seem to work as the manual said.
Voltage at ignition, voltage at the fuse block, voltage at the coil input
Does any of this jump out at anyone?
My coils have perma plug wires so no easy replacing without splicers (Z1E has 'em)...right now their short and tight. :S
There are also 3 "ballast resistor" looking units under the coils...what they be for? Anyone have experience with them?
Probably new plug caps are in order and new plugs for good measure.
Any tips on checking ignitors?
I know, I know...check the archives...so I will.
Thanks for any tips.
Here's a pic with fairing and side covers removed for transport.
Post edited by: neilage66, at: 2007/05/19 22:21
Post edited by: neilage66, at: 2007/05/20 20:26
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- Patton
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1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- neilage66
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I think I found the answer to the ballast resistors.
They cut the juice a little and the coils cut it a little to get the desired 3 ohms or so primary resistance with cooler running coils?
Like 1.5 + 1.5 = 3 ohms cutting down 12 volts?
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- neilage66
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Any potential problems with doing this?
I like the idea of a cleaner set up...less wiring and simplicity.
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- neilage66
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- wireman
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- neilage66
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thanks!
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- loudhvx
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If the igniter blows up, Neil, you can make one cheap and easy.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- neilage66
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Ignitor checked within spec all around thanks to some good "destructions" from wiredoOOod!
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- neilage66
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Thanks to him and Mrs Wireman for the post office trip.
Bought a set of VW plug wires so I'd have the male straight boot coil terminals for the dynas...gonna cut off the VW plug boots and twist on the NGK's. Hate to waste those fancy German made plug boots but Japan was their ally in the big war so...:whistle:
There are three ballast resistors near the coils. The "big" one is a part of the reserve lighting circuits which I'll leave alone and the 2 "small" (1.5 ohm) ones go with the (OEM 1.5 ohm) coils, ignitor, and starter switch circuit. I'm thinking that running direct, effectively "removing" the "small" ones from the circuit path should do the trick. I'll let y'all know if she blows up...or runs like a top! :laugh:
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- N0NB
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- Blue handles better
Coil cylinder wiring order = L to R = 1-4-2-3
That does not sound right to me. with cylinder number 4 being on the right. No? While sitting on the bike and looking down, shouldn't the wires number across 1-2-3-4?
Nate
Nates vintage bike axiom: Riding is the reward for time spent wrenching.
Murphys corollary: Wrenching is the result of time spent riding.
1979 KZ650 (Complete!)
1979 KZ650 SR (Sold!)
1979 KL250 (For sale)
1994 Bayou 400 (four wheel peel )
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- wireman
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i think hes talking about the coils being 1-4 on left side and 2-3 on right side,which doesnt really matter as long as power wires to coils are hooked right;) glad they got there fast,i just sent them out the door friday afternoon.ive lost a lot of stuff through ups and once through post office ,but post office came through this time!In your first post you say:
Coil cylinder wiring order = L to R = 1-4-2-3
That does not sound right to me. with cylinder number 4 being on the right. No? While sitting on the bike and looking down, shouldn't the wires number across 1-2-3-4?
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