Replacing Coils+Ballast Resistors
- neilage66
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Replacing Coils+Ballast Resistors
19 May 2007 18:45
So, I have been working on a low mile 1980 which is now mine and after cleaning the carbs of varnish (VM29 smoothies I think) flushing the tank, installing an inline fuel filter and looking her over real close I tried a start. I had added some oil to the cylinders and turned the engine over by hand, checked plugs, new battery...yada, yada, yada...
I was excited to try her after sitting for over a decade (found some well-roasted peanuts in the Kerker silencer!) and I have to say the largest backfires I ever heard come from a bike were what I got...nearly blew the baffle out. :laugh:
I've got weak to no spark :pinch:
On to electrics:
Coil cylinder wiring order = L to R = 1-4-2-3
Coil primary ohms = 1.5
Coil secondary ohms = 15500-16000
Pickup coil resistance = 500 ohms/each pair
Stock heat range plugs (look great but old)
Plug Caps = 4-6K ohms with 2 intermittent (manual says 10K is normal, so...)
Tried to check ignitor but already had plug caps and wires apart and the test didn't seem to work as the manual said.
Voltage at ignition, voltage at the fuse block, voltage at the coil input
Does any of this jump out at anyone?
My coils have perma plug wires so no easy replacing without splicers (Z1E has 'em)...right now their short and tight. :S
There are also 3 "ballast resistor" looking units under the coils...what they be for? Anyone have experience with them?
Probably new plug caps are in order and new plugs for good measure.
Any tips on checking ignitors?
I know, I know...check the archives...so I will.
Thanks for any tips.
Here's a pic with fairing and side covers removed for transport.
Post edited by: neilage66, at: 2007/05/19 22:21
Post edited by: neilage66, at: 2007/05/20 20:26
I was excited to try her after sitting for over a decade (found some well-roasted peanuts in the Kerker silencer!) and I have to say the largest backfires I ever heard come from a bike were what I got...nearly blew the baffle out. :laugh:
I've got weak to no spark :pinch:
On to electrics:
Coil cylinder wiring order = L to R = 1-4-2-3
Coil primary ohms = 1.5
Coil secondary ohms = 15500-16000
Pickup coil resistance = 500 ohms/each pair
Stock heat range plugs (look great but old)
Plug Caps = 4-6K ohms with 2 intermittent (manual says 10K is normal, so...)
Tried to check ignitor but already had plug caps and wires apart and the test didn't seem to work as the manual said.
Voltage at ignition, voltage at the fuse block, voltage at the coil input
Does any of this jump out at anyone?
My coils have perma plug wires so no easy replacing without splicers (Z1E has 'em)...right now their short and tight. :S
There are also 3 "ballast resistor" looking units under the coils...what they be for? Anyone have experience with them?
Probably new plug caps are in order and new plugs for good measure.
Any tips on checking ignitors?
I know, I know...check the archives...so I will.
Thanks for any tips.
Here's a pic with fairing and side covers removed for transport.
Post edited by: neilage66, at: 2007/05/19 22:21
Post edited by: neilage66, at: 2007/05/20 20:26
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- Patton
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
19 May 2007 19:13
Suggest Dyna copper core wires from Z1E. Come with caps already built in.

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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- neilage66
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
19 May 2007 20:52
Good suggestion Patton, but I guess splicers will be in order too.
I think I found the answer to the ballast resistors.
They cut the juice a little and the coils cut it a little to get the desired 3 ohms or so primary resistance with cooler running coils?
Like 1.5 + 1.5 = 3 ohms cutting down 12 volts?
I think I found the answer to the ballast resistors.
They cut the juice a little and the coils cut it a little to get the desired 3 ohms or so primary resistance with cooler running coils?
Like 1.5 + 1.5 = 3 ohms cutting down 12 volts?
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- neilage66
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
20 May 2007 09:12
Does anyone have experience replacing the coils and ballast resistors with just 3 ohm coils?
Any potential problems with doing this?
I like the idea of a cleaner set up...less wiring and simplicity.
Any potential problems with doing this?
I like the idea of a cleaner set up...less wiring and simplicity.
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- neilage66
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- wireman
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
20 May 2007 17:39
got 2 dyna green coils and a manual for ya just looking for a box;)
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- neilage66
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- loudhvx
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
20 May 2007 20:21
Dyna green? Is that 3-ohm? Should work ok without ballast.
If the igniter blows up, Neil, you can make one cheap and easy.
If the igniter blows up, Neil, you can make one cheap and easy.

1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- neilage66
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
21 May 2007 05:49
Thanks Lou. Yes Green = 3 ohm coil.
Ignitor checked within spec all around thanks to some good "destructions" from wiredoOOod!
Ignitor checked within spec all around thanks to some good "destructions" from wiredoOOod!

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- neilage66
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
30 May 2007 19:13
Got a package from wireman yesterday containing the Dynatek 3 ohm greens and a manual + bonus t-shirts!
Thanks to him and Mrs Wireman for the post office trip.
Bought a set of VW plug wires so I'd have the male straight boot coil terminals for the dynas...gonna cut off the VW plug boots and twist on the NGK's. Hate to waste those fancy German made plug boots but Japan was their ally in the big war so...:whistle:
There are three ballast resistors near the coils. The "big" one is a part of the reserve lighting circuits which I'll leave alone and the 2 "small" (1.5 ohm) ones go with the (OEM 1.5 ohm) coils, ignitor, and starter switch circuit. I'm thinking that running direct, effectively "removing" the "small" ones from the circuit path should do the trick. I'll let y'all know if she blows up...or runs like a top!
:laugh:
Thanks to him and Mrs Wireman for the post office trip.
Bought a set of VW plug wires so I'd have the male straight boot coil terminals for the dynas...gonna cut off the VW plug boots and twist on the NGK's. Hate to waste those fancy German made plug boots but Japan was their ally in the big war so...:whistle:
There are three ballast resistors near the coils. The "big" one is a part of the reserve lighting circuits which I'll leave alone and the 2 "small" (1.5 ohm) ones go with the (OEM 1.5 ohm) coils, ignitor, and starter switch circuit. I'm thinking that running direct, effectively "removing" the "small" ones from the circuit path should do the trick. I'll let y'all know if she blows up...or runs like a top!


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- N0NB
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
30 May 2007 19:43
In your first post you say:
That does not sound right to me. with cylinder number 4 being on the right. No? While sitting on the bike and looking down, shouldn't the wires number across 1-2-3-4?
Coil cylinder wiring order = L to R = 1-4-2-3
That does not sound right to me. with cylinder number 4 being on the right. No? While sitting on the bike and looking down, shouldn't the wires number across 1-2-3-4?
Nate
Nates vintage bike axiom: Riding is the reward for time spent wrenching.
Murphys corollary: Wrenching is the result of time spent riding.
1979 KZ650 (Complete!)
1979 KZ650 SR (Sold!)
1979 KL250 (For sale)
1994 Bayou 400 (four wheel peel
)
Nates vintage bike axiom: Riding is the reward for time spent wrenching.
Murphys corollary: Wrenching is the result of time spent riding.
1979 KZ650 (Complete!)
1979 KZ650 SR (Sold!)
1979 KL250 (For sale)
1994 Bayou 400 (four wheel peel

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- wireman
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Re: Z1R Electrics...diagnosis please
30 May 2007 20:07
N0NB wrote:
i think hes talking about the coils being 1-4 on left side and 2-3 on right side,which doesnt really matter as long as power wires to coils are hooked right;) glad they got there fast,i just sent them out the door friday afternoon.ive lost a lot of stuff through ups and once through post office ,but post office came through this time!In your first post you say:
Coil cylinder wiring order = L to R = 1-4-2-3
That does not sound right to me. with cylinder number 4 being on the right. No? While sitting on the bike and looking down, shouldn't the wires number across 1-2-3-4?

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