Main fuse blew for no apparent reason?

I've put about 250 miles on this bike since I reacquired it with no problems. I drive a mile and a half down the road and it just dies at a red light. The main fuse was blown and it was a 30 amp instead of a 20 already. The only thing I can think of is driving with the headlight on draws too much current? My amp meter only goes to 20 amps so I hesitate to try that but maybe I will. Bike has all LED bulbs in turn signals and brake light, the only modification is the H4 headlight bulb. It also has the WiredGeorge coil mod so the coils draw power direct from the battery with their own fuse. Doesnt make a whole lot of sense to me why the fuse would blow. I made it home with a 15 amp fuse in there and the headlight turned off. I guess I will probably need to relay the headlight now... Just curious if anyone else has had a similar experience?

Ron

Likely to be intermittent short(s) somewhere in the wiring harness.

Had the same situation with the Copsickle and found two - one in the rat's nest of wires glommed into the headlight bucket, another in the turn signal switchblock.

If it was a full-time short condition, the effects would be more uniform - replace fuse, turn on lights, fuse blows kind of thing.

Happy hunting. :pinch:

If your still using glass fuses, that could be the problem.
Alot of people have upgraded to the blade type fuses.

You know, I did have the turn signal on for about a half mile too cuz I forgot to turn it off.. Maybe it's in the handlebar switch, I already know the high beam part isnt working. I have a "new" one off a copsicle Might be time to put it on. Only reason I didnt already is cuz the wires dont run through the bars like the factory one. I have inspected the wiring pretty good unless something happened last time I put the tank on it's all good. I think it's definitely time to upgrade the fuse box, now to find that thread with the nice links to cheap fuse boxes.

If it actually "blew" with the 30 amp fuse in there, well it doesn't may any difference if it's 20 or 30 amp, you have an intermittent short in the system somewhere and it is time to start searching. But, there is also the possibility that the ends of your fuse holder are corroded or loose. If they are there a resistance built up between the fuse and the clip and heat will build up and actually melt the end of the fuse gradually over time this will also cause the clip to lose it's tension. This may be your problem. You will usually see solder actually coming out between the end cap and the glass. If it is a short the center of the fuse will be blown. Try cleaning the clips in the fuse box and squeeze them together a little so they hold the fuse tighter. If this works it's is getting time to either replace the fuse box with a blade type one which is much better or to replace it with seperate inline fuse holders.
Good luck

Yea, there are two types of "blown fuses". Either the type where the fuse is blown and filled with black inside or the one where you can look and see the filiment has burned open right in the center of the fuse. These are the short circuit fuse failure so would be a pinched wire ect, not a headlight as they don't draw that much power.
The other fuse failure mentioned is the bad connection at the clips which will cause the fuse to run red hot and eventually melt the filiment at one of the ends. Also melt the plastic near the fuse. This is a common ailment and I thought about it every night when I was riding along a dark road, because when the fuse burns, you have no lights. Can be a little bit dangerous to say the least. After you replace the fuse if you're not sure, ride around a few miles and touch the fuse with your finger, but be careful, it may be hot as a soldering iron. This would mean you have the bad clips. They always will run warm, but not too hot to touch if everything is OK with the clips.

Post edited by: RonKZ650, at: 2007/05/08 13:08