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point gap 1975 kz900
- Patton
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- KZr Legend
05 May 2007 13:54 #137349
by Patton
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Replied by Patton on topic point gap 1975 kz900
Each points set is held by two screws (through slotted holes) to a back plate. Each back plate is held by two screws (through slotted holes) to the round mounting plate. The round mounting plate is held by three screws (through slotted holes) to the engine case. A cam fits through the advancer. The heels of the points ride the cam to open and close. A little oil soaked felt pad lubes the cam so the heels don't wear out so fast.
1st -- Adjust gaps -- Do this separately for each points set. Turn crankshaft clockwise using 17 mm wrench to widest points opening and adjust gap separately for each set of points at 0.3-0.4mm (.012-.016 inch). Each points set has two base screws to very slightly loosen thereby allowing movement to open or close gap, then retighten after setting gap. The widest gap happens when the heel is resting on the highest part of the cam. At this stage nothing but the gap has been adjusted. But this is important because proper gap does affect the subsequent timing procedure. And other screws have remained tight.
2nd -- Set Timing -- Each points set has two mounting screws and pry slots which can be used with strobe light (after slightly loosening the two mounting screws) to align the respective F marks with the timing mark. But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel far enough to allow correct adjustment, then loosen the three mounting plate screws and move the mounting plate.
3rd -- Tighten and recheck --Tighten all screws and recheck timing with strobe light.
Also, check to assure proper operation of the advancer unit. If removed for cleaning and lubing, be sure the cam unit is replaced correctly and not 180 degrees off.
Memo -- Am sure you also checked for fresh clean oil in the crankcase; and that you drained the float bowls and fuel lines of any stale gas; and have a good accessory fuel filter in the fuel line (don't rely on the petcock filter); and fresh gas in the tank; and a clean air filter.
Also good to have a fan blowing onto the cylinders while setting the timing.
And please remember not to embark on any carb work until everything else is to specs (all ignition aspects, valve clearances, etc.)
Good luck.
Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/05/05 17:04
1st -- Adjust gaps -- Do this separately for each points set. Turn crankshaft clockwise using 17 mm wrench to widest points opening and adjust gap separately for each set of points at 0.3-0.4mm (.012-.016 inch). Each points set has two base screws to very slightly loosen thereby allowing movement to open or close gap, then retighten after setting gap. The widest gap happens when the heel is resting on the highest part of the cam. At this stage nothing but the gap has been adjusted. But this is important because proper gap does affect the subsequent timing procedure. And other screws have remained tight.
2nd -- Set Timing -- Each points set has two mounting screws and pry slots which can be used with strobe light (after slightly loosening the two mounting screws) to align the respective F marks with the timing mark. But if the adjusting plate doesn't travel far enough to allow correct adjustment, then loosen the three mounting plate screws and move the mounting plate.
3rd -- Tighten and recheck --Tighten all screws and recheck timing with strobe light.
Also, check to assure proper operation of the advancer unit. If removed for cleaning and lubing, be sure the cam unit is replaced correctly and not 180 degrees off.
Memo -- Am sure you also checked for fresh clean oil in the crankcase; and that you drained the float bowls and fuel lines of any stale gas; and have a good accessory fuel filter in the fuel line (don't rely on the petcock filter); and fresh gas in the tank; and a clean air filter.
Also good to have a fan blowing onto the cylinders while setting the timing.
And please remember not to embark on any carb work until everything else is to specs (all ignition aspects, valve clearances, etc.)
Good luck.
Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/05/05 17:04
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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