Test ride today. KZ1000 elec. Ign. into a KZ650

KZ1000's mounting plate rough in:
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Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2006/01/01 22:55

And the IC Igniter. I was lucky to get one with the proper wire connection, makes wiring a little easier;
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Looks pretty damn nice!
Quick qestion: Are the mounting screws for the magnets out for a reason? taken apart while cutting the backing plate maybe?

If so, be very careful to not change the location or polarity on the magnets (dont flip them). The magnet's poles work together and determine the polarity and strength of the pickup signals.

Quick qestion: Are the mounting screws for the magnets out for a reason? taken apart while cutting the backing plate maybe?

I removed the magnets and pick ups to modify the mounting plate which still needs a little adjustment. I have been careful to keep the magnets in their spot. But now that you mention this, I will make a note to check their possitioning. They were glued to the back plate by a tiny line of glue, so I can check these glue prints for positioning.

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Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2006/01/06 16:52

It would probably be a good idea to check the total advance and the rpm at which the advance occurs on both bikes to make sure they are somewhere near the same.

Here are the 650 Timing Advance RPMs below. Can someone look up the '79 KZ1000 in their Manual for me?

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according to the book I have at 1350 rpm the timing is at base 11 deg. at 1850 rpm its at 25 deg at 2250 rpm its at 41.5 deg.

if the base is 9 deg the timing stays there until 1580 rpm at 2250 rpm the timing is at 25 deg at 2450 rpm the timing is at 38 deg.

if this is not clear I can fax you the page

Thanks for the info. How would you say that compares to the 650s info above?

I've got two other manuals, I should check them for specs.

Aren't you using the advancer from the 650? If so, that is what will determine your advance curve.

Or does the 1000's rotor not fit on the 650's advancer?
(This is the point Steell was making earlier in the thread.)

All you really need to know is if the total advance angle is the same. Make sure the rubber stops (they are tiny and almost invisible if dirty) are in place on the advance weights or your advance angle will increase.


Do you know how to static time the Kaw elec. ignition? Let me know if you want the details.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2006/01/07 18:47

I haven't had a good look at the advancers to see if I can swap the rotor over. I just was hoping I'd be able to just use the 1000s complete advancer. I'll have a good look at them though.

Do you know how to static time the Kaw elec. ignition?

No.

Let me know if you want the details.

Yes, please give me details. I can never have too much info. Don't want to sc%#w anything up.

Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2006/01/07 23:01

If you can find someone with a old 650 electronic ign. backing plate you can just swap out the parts. I built a electronic ign. for a friend and used a 650 unit on a old fried 1000 unit. Roy

I tried the 1000's rotor on to the 650's base.
The 1000's rotor is shorter by approx 1/8 th. of an inch/ 3~4 mm. I could find a washer for that, but I think the position of the rotor to pick up, would be out of whack. I've got to check.



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The weights and size of the baseplates of the 650s and 1000s look to be the same, other than a raised ring on the backside of the 650s.

The springs are different. There are two extra windings in the 650's springs. How easy do the springs come off without distorting them? Maybe I just need to swap the springs to get the Timing Advance I need.
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Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2006/01/08 17:44

Will the ecentric off the 1000 ign fit the 650? Roy