Voltage Regulator/Rectifier

I finally got the money to order a new voltage regulator/rectifier for my '99 kz1000p and I finally got the bike broke down and took off the old on and you can clearly see the damage on the old one but I was looking at it and the old one has 6 wires (Black, Whitered, brown, and 3 yellows) The new one that I just got in only has 5 wiers...(Black, Red, 3 yellows) Now did they send me the incorrect one or does the missing wire matter? HELP!!

That type of reg/rec can have 5 or 6 wires depending on the internal design. The difference is that the extra wire is for the voltage detection circuit. The extra wire has 12 volts from the ignition switch when the bike is on. It gets switched off when the bike is off so the detection circuit won't drain the battery.

The 5 wire design uses a detection circuit which uses no current when the battery voltage is low (like when the bike is off). The detection circuit is then reading the voltage on the output of the reg/rec.

The 5-wire will work in place of the 6-wire, but you just leave the brown wire unconnected.

I don't have a diagram for the P models, so I can't say for sure what the color codes will be. In general, on KZ's (NOT hondas), on the reg/rec, the black will be ground, the red or white will be the positive of the battery, and brown is the switched 12v (which you will leave taped off). The three yellows are to the alternator.

Ok I have the wiring schematic here. The W/R wire that the old one had that the new one doesnt traces to postive terminal of the battery and to a 30 Amp fuse. I am guessing the Br wire on the old one is the Red wire on the new one and it traces to a 10 Amp Fuse and the fuel meter and the horn. So should I take the coorisponding wire in the harness that goes to the now non exeistant W/R wire and tape it off? Thanks for the info!

As already noted, the internals of your new reg/rec are different from the old. The old required a feedback voltage to control the amount of voltage coming out of the reg/rec. The feedback voltage was on the brown wire which is coming off your ignition switch (switched DC). The new reg/rec is self regulating. The wire that supplies power to the fuses/battery has a sensing function for the reg/rec to tell it how much to put out. The yellow wires will be the wires coming in from your alternator or stator. Doesn't matter which yellow wire from the reg/rec connects to the three wires off the alternator (or stator). I am not familiar with your application but it is likely that the BLACK wire is the ground as it is on the OEM unit. That leaves the RED wire. This will have to be the power out wire. This wire will go the battery via a lug on your starter solenoid AND will go to the fuse box out of a Y connection.

So it all boils down to the new one should just plug right in and work fine? :pinch: Maybe I should have just asked that from the beginning.. Just wanna make sure I dont blow up a $100 part when I plug it in and put the bike back together.

Post edited by: JCGreen, at: 2007/02/26 09:44

We're not really saying it will plug right in. We're just saying it should work as long as you connect the correct wires together.

:whistle: Guess I will just cross my fingers and hope then. It looks like everything should be going to the right thing just there is no 6th wire. We will find out shortly. Will hook it all up this weekend and see what happens BEFORE I put the bugger back together again. Wish me luck.

NO ONE can guess if it will plug in and work. LOOK AT THE WIRES that go into both connectors. If the thing has a single connector out, do the yellow go to yellow? OK, if they do, then does the black go to black? The issue you will have is that the RED wire (IF IT IS POWER OUT) will NOT connect to the white wire or white/red... the wire that carries power to the battery/fuse area. YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE TO DO SOME WIRING in all liklihood.

No the only wire that doesn't have a match is the white/red wire now doesnt have a matching mate on the rectifier. The red goes to brown and the black to black and the 3 yellows to the 3 yellows.

The brown wire on one side of our harness is coming off the ignition swtich... it IS there for providing feedback voltage TO the reg/rec I think. Connect the ground (black) and three AC wires and check the voltage on the RED wire. Check it at idle and I suspect it will have 12.5 VDC and check it at 3500 rpm and it should have about 14.5 VDC. If it does, the red wire will connect to the both the battery via a lug on the starter relay (the lug with the battery wire connected to it) and also to the main fuse... There will be a Y or double connector but that is where the VOLTAGE OUT of the reg/rec goes.

Ok let me see if I got this right. I apologise for the lack of knowledge on my part but Im still learning. On the new rec/reg the red wire connects to the brown wire already via the connector and the black to black (ground) and the 3 yellows to the 3 yellows. The missing White/Red wire on the new reg/rec won't matter because the new reg/rec is self regulating now unlike the old one. So therefore I should be able to connect the new reg/rec to the wireing harness via the connector and test the voltage and if I get the 12.5 VDC at idle and the 14.5 VDC at 3500 RPMs then all should be good?

wiredgeorge wrote:

The brown wire on one side of our harness is coming off the ignition swtich... it IS there for providing feedback voltage TO the reg/rec I think. Connect the ground (black) and three AC wires and check the voltage on the RED wire. Check it at idle and I suspect it will have 12.5 VDC and check it at 3500 rpm and it should have about 14.5 VDC.

If the red is not connected to a battery, it's possible the voltage coming out may be erratic. The voltage may not give a meaningful result on a meter. Also, this heavily stresses the regulator since it will have to short out all of the output from the alternator. I don't recommend this test for more than a few seconds, if at all.


wiredgeorge wrote:

If it does, the red wire will connect to the both the battery via a lug on the starter relay (the lug with the battery wire connected to it) and also to the main fuse... There will be a Y or double connector but that is where the VOLTAGE OUT of the reg/rec goes.

I think it's a pretty safe bet that the red wire is the main output and should be connected as described here, by WG.

Basically, leave the brown wire unconnected, assuming the wire colors are still the stock ones.

Post edited by: loudhvx, at: 2007/03/03 17:18