TOPIC:

pumps wrote:

I'm not gonna flame you I thought it was pretty good.

Thanks pumps
That makes me feel better already.
All you guys out there, who actually make a living doing electrical stuff on bikes or other, please don't be bashful. Put in your 2c worth.
I was not too embarrassed to put my post out there, even though it was wordy by necessity. I am just into helping those who are totally inexperienced or maybe a little intimidated at using a meter to trouble shoot their scoot.
The stuff I have addressed thus far ain't all that complex, but if you, or you or you have a simpler approach, then let's hear it .
I will also stoop to scoot advise by asking the more knowledgeable to hold my hand as well; check out my most recent post in the carb section.

Thanks alot. That info should help alot of people on alot of different vehicles. Once i get it back together enough to test this i definatly will. while its out i'm going to go over it real good to make sure there are no bare wires any where although there is no smoke coming from any where so a direct short may not be the problem

Nice write up Jim!

I always think of a coil as a current-storage device. It doesn't store it for very long, but you cannot stop the current instantly. The coil forces the current to keep flowing, so in a way, it stores current (even though it's really storing a current-induced B field).

Well since you axed the question I will be pacific when I answer. I used to do this sort of work for Suzuki and also anything Japanese.

First, I would make darn sure it is charging. Start the bike and put a DC voltmeter across the terminals. It should go to 14.7 or at least 13.7 when you rev it up. If you don't get this, then the problem is in the rectifier or regulator. Both are easy to test.

If you are charging, then I would shut the bike off and take out all the fuses. I don't know how many you have, but lets say 3 or so. Take them all out and see if it is discharging the batter. This will help us decide if it's a failed component on a fused circuit, or if it's a short somewhere else.

Put the fuses back one at a time and test to see which circuit is drawing the current. Troubleshoot it from there. Disconnect everything on that circuit and then work backwards as you reconnect them.

Keep notes, no short cuts, you can solve the problem. A DC amp meter would be great but is not necessary.

floridamba wrote:

Well since you axed the question I will be pacific when I answer. I used to do this sort of work for Suzuki and also anything Japanese.

First, I would make darn sure it is charging....

Thanks
I sort of neglected to mention the rather high probability that the battery is not being discharged when switch is off, but instead, when it is on.
When all the lights, ignition, electric windows and everything else are on, it will 'kill' the batt in short order, if the charging system is not healthy.

Post edited by: JimatMilkyWay, at: 2007/02/03 22:53

loudhvx wrote:

Nice write up Jim!

I always think of a coil as a current-storage device....

I think you have a point there. The energy has to go somewhere when the field collapses.

Well... it sounds like it is charging fine but drains the battery in a week when sitting. If it was a short it would probably drain it a lot faster than a week, maybe in a day or overnight.

I would try and take all the fuses out of it and see if it still drains the battery. If it does, then it is a light on somewhere or a failed componet like regulator, rectifier, etc.

If not, then put the fuses back in one at a time, waiting a day or two to see which circuit has the draw that is taking the battery down.

It could be a wire rubbing on the frame, or a bad switch or such. I had a pinched wire on my 82 1000 LTD that blew a fuse recently - the PO had routed the harness up from frame to steering head by going alongside the frame. When the steering head was full-lock left it would pinch the harness - boom - blown fuse. I rerouted the harness under the triple tree and in front of the lower triple clamp and all is well.

It's someplace to look.

If it's not a wiring short, but a device, then pretty much the only thing with power all the time is the regulator/rectifier. Usually when the rectifier goes, it goes all the way, but I suppose it's possible it is going bad slowly.

If pulling the fuses don't stop the drain, then disconnect the reg/rec and see if that stops the drain. Next would be the starter solenoid, I guess.

how about a clamp on amp meter to tell you which circuit has a load on it

I too thought of that wireman and even brought out my clamp on and looked at it...it doesn't have the ability to go low on dc amps. It's an old one though.I hardly ever use it.

I have a Harbor Freight $4 VOA meter that does 10A but that is probably not enough for this - going over would blow the meter.

The fuses would show what circuit, then we can figure out what devices on the circuit could cause it.

These bikes have a 3-phase alternator with either a permanent magnet rotor or an excited field alternator.

What specific model/year are we talking about here?

I have used a test light in between battery post,and cable.test light should be lit.Pull each fuse,if there`s a problem in the circuit/circuits the light will go out.If its in another circuit,the test light will stay lit.