re-wire project...Is a wire by any other name still as sweet?

Hi all, I am not angry at the re-wire project yet. Must be a good sign, no?

Firstly, big heart felt thank you's to 77Dav0650, Loudhvx, wiredgeorge and stevo_4192003[/b.]The information sent was both poignant and greatly appreciated. I look forward to the opportunity to, and only hope that I can assist others as helpfully as I have been helped. Again, thank you.

I have always really liked 14 guage solid core wire. It routes nice & rigidly. It will even hold a twist if you like for a decorative barber pole look.

Is there any reason that I should not use this wire for the comlete re-wire project ?

I have not started putting wire in yet, bloody Seattle rain. I will start soon. I figure to do the most innocuous circuits first, brakes, markers, dash as inherent impedance would be less of an issue there. Speaking of impedences-

What is a normal signal blink rate? I am getting about 5 blinks per second, a little quick for my desire. There are some aftermarket lamps on it right now (prior owner mod) and the front two have yet to be hooked up. I think this could be the cause of the quick blink rate. What think? Also;

The turn's relay seems to need to warm up, Hrmfph... The first time they are used it seems to need about 3 seconds to start blinking. Subsequent uses do not seem to need as much time, seemingly here. I have not been able to use them enough to figure out the nuances and timings yet.

Appreciatively appreciating,
Cheers.

Q

1977 Kz 650 b-2? (dual fronts aluminum wheels)

I wouldn't use solid core wire. That won't stand up to vibration like stranded, automotive wire.

........uh, hmm.

That's true, isn't it.....

O.k. I'm convinced of it.

Stranded wire would tend to give and thusly absorb energy (vibration) where the rigid solid wire would be prone to convey it. That might lead to insulation deterioration, more shorts or even wire breakage......

Oh well....

Anyone want some solid core wire? Lots of colors.....

Thanks for the heads up man...!

A shopping I will go once more. Stranded 14 guage this time.

Q

Ten words, all two letters.
If it is to be, it is up to me.

Stranded also will carry more current as the electrons pass over the surface of the wire I believe and there is more surface area with stranded.It's inherently more flexible. If one strand gets chafed or broken you have all of it's brothers to take up the slack!

You would certainly have problems in the harness where it goes from the frame to the headlight bucket; it needs to flex at that point when you turn the bars.
Save the 14 gauge solid wire for your house. Actually, use 12 gauge for that.

OEM wiring is generally 18 ga. I believe.

14 ga is good for 15a

Having rewired a number of vehicles from scratch, I'll chime in and say 14 is WAY overkill. Most street vehicles (cars and bikes, both) use 18 pretty consistantly. I usually rewire with 16 (see my signature) for safety margin, but have never hesitated to grab a spool of 18 if that's what's available.
(except, of course, for lights, fuel pump, starter, etc...)

pstrbrc wrote:

Having rewired a number of vehicles from scratch, I'll chime in and say 14 is WAY overkill. Most street vehicles (cars and bikes, both) use 18 pretty consistantly. I usually rewire with 16 (see my signature) for safety margin, but have never hesitated to grab a spool of 18 if that's what's available.
(except, of course, for lights, fuel pump, starter, etc...)

definately say you have a 50w bulb 50w divided by 12v gives you just over 4a which a 16 ga wire should be more than adequate to handle.