1978 KZ650B Not Getting Fuel

Pilot screw is under the carb, airscrew is on the side of the carb.

If you back off on that big idle screw the slides should come down.

Yes, I figured it out yesterday, as per the manual, and locked them down at .079 like it says to, and thought I would have a good day today....nope.
I reinstalled the carbs, gave them gas, full choke, no throttle and hit the starter, and again it cranked nice and strong, but no Vroom. And, yesterday going over the carbs again I made sure the little teeny holes in the starter circuit pipe were clear.

I have fuel, I have compression, and I have spark....and still no gas to the carbs! I can smell it in the pipes, but the plugs are not wet; the cylinders are not flooded, either. The pilot screw is set to 1 1/8 turns out from a soft seat... But Wait, There's More -

So I'm cranking the starter button, the bike is cranking, and then the bike won't crank - hit the button, No Crank. Jump the solenoid, it cranks. OK, a bad solenoid, 'cause it happens. Took off the solenoid, tested the leads and got 3.7 ohms. I have a new unused solenoid too, tested the leads on that one and got 3.7ohms, so I believe its not the starter solenoid. The starter cranks, so that's good. The wiring looks good too, nothing I can see (yet) is shorted, the main fuses are OK...one observation, though, is the aftermarket solenoid I put on, advertised as a direct fit, has one Yellow/Red wire and one Green/Red wire; YLO/RD goes to the black wire in the original harness, and the GRN/RD wire was going to the YLO/RD wire.

I was getting spark with that set-up, but did my stupidity fry something? Underneath the different colors, a wire is a wire, Yes? - or is it Not? Could that be a source of trouble? Are the poles in the solenoid That dependent on where the electricity goes after it leaves the battery?

Even so, that still doesn't explain why I don't have fuel going to the carbs...I have a feeling I'm missing something very basic here...

By jumping the solenoid your bypassing the kill switch and starter button. Both of which are notoriously finicky if they have not been cleaned for 40 years. Are you sure your starter electrical problem doesnt lie there?
Re fuel. Check each component individually. Does the tap flow? Is your fuel pipe clear? Have you got an inline filter and is it filling? Is it directional in flow? Does it have an air lock? Are you getting fuel to the bowls? Are all the jets and tubes clear?
If all those are good and your inlet valves are opening, your timing is correct and you have a spark with compression it will run.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationyour petcock has a prime that works with the petcock lever in the down position, have you checked to make sure gas flows with the lever down?

I just checked out your post showing the rewire job, is that all new?
Here is an original set up for your bike that looks like it would clean up nicely.


DEoxit-5 is a great product for cleaning wire connections, use as directed
www.parts-express.com/caig-deoxit-d5s-6-...rfect-straw--341-200

That's a great picture, it helps to see where everything goes..

BUT..! I finally managed to get her started yesterday! I think the bench-synch really helped - the slides were Way out, and I brought them back into spec at 0.79mm.
I also noticed the solenoid was wired wrong - Y/R to Grn/Rd(Black), instead of Y/R to Y/R, etc...I think that helped too.

My No-Crank problem I traced back to the little teeny screw in the Run switch - it just needed to be tightened up. I cleaned up the lockout switch while I was in there.

But during this process, I noticed she really seemed to want to start on starting fluid, so I thought "What the heck," and put the tank on - fresh gas, full choke, hit the starter button and SHE STARTED! And ran Well, too! I am psyched!

Thanks to everyone here that offered their advice, I don't think I could have done this without you. I'm sure I'll have more questions - I still have throttle-synching to do - but for now, Thank You.