TOPIC:

I was in the garage today and checked the vent for the carbs, and I have connected like martin says it shall be...
I took a test drive, and the behaqvior it still the same.

Looking forward to recive the new jests, hopefully will they solve my problem with the engine...?
Plan is to test them after Easter.

Thank you all for taken time to study my issue.

baldy110 wrote: Your way to rich on your jetting. Go to 112.5 on the main jets and 17.5 on the pilot jets. Put the needle clip in the middle slot. And use mikuni jets not the ones that come in those cheap ebay kits. That should get you pretty close.

Today have I installed the new jets 112.5 and 17.5, the nide was not in middle slot, it was one higher up (second from top).
The engine started easy and the sound from the engine was nice (from my point of view as a new beginner).
I started to drive slow on low RPM and it was respond okay to my throttle, just 2-3k RPM.
I started to give more throttle in a hill, and the engine was not going good some like before... going up to 5-6 and "choking" it self, if I tried to give more throttle... on top of the hill I stooped and stopped en engine, I was frustrated now...... I started the engine again, and
was giving full throttle (mad) and the engine was going to max RPM in red zone (in natural), not perfect increase in RPM, but it was going there... to red zone. And then something happened after I release the throttle and tested the throttle, something like something has loosen up ???? hehe because now was there different zone of from the engine, 500% better throttle response, and I have 500% power/torque,
no problem to run each gear to red zone..... I have stopped the engine and started it again and the zone is the same...

So my problem is solved ? but for how long time ? do I have unstable issue ? strange strange... I have tested the engine many times with the old jets never got it run properly....

Summary:
I re jetted to 112,5 and 17,5 and after I was giving full throttle and running the engine to red zone in RPM the engine "wake up"....

What was happened ? hehe

Sounds like the bike wasn't running on all four cylinders, but now it is. Maybe an intermittent contact somewhere causing dropped spark or a plugged up pilot circuit? Not sure, but I'm happy it's running better for you.

Nessism wrote: Sounds like the bike wasn't running on all four cylinders, but now it is. Maybe an intermittent contact somewhere causing dropped spark or a plugged up pilot circuit? Not sure, but I'm happy it's running better for you.

I found these strange, I have taken out the spark plugs several times and cleaned them and I can see there has been ignition on all four plugs, earlier when I have had these problem. Then it must be something when you have higher RPM. Can it be there was something wrong with the ignition system? I have not read how its work, but the timing must increase when the engine increase also?

I have cleaned the carbs... I cross my finger it was a block in the pilot... because then the problem will not come back

Maybe it was a combination that my new jets also have helped?

I don`t see any reason to increase the jets now? I think its run fine? I can wait seeling the jets (I order different sizes around 17,5 and 112,5) to have I have som more driving hours to get more experience from the engine?

Today the problem was back, the engine was not going smooth... it starting easy... but rest is the same.
I think the problem is ignition related as Nessism also indicated, when I hear on the sound it sounds like is missing one piston... but these is some guessing also I`m not experienced in hearing it....

So I was lost where to start troubleshooting, I was looking for loose cables, and on the coil for piston 2 and 3 I found soldering cable was not 100% in god connection, but it was not broken... See attached picture after I removed it.

The problem was I tried to starting the engine without these cable for coil to cylinder 2 and 3, and the start motor started and I could hear the engine almost started, I tried to start again, and I heard a sound and maybe some light from the eletrical components under the seat...
And then everyting was black... no power to light on the dashboard or anything.... I was checking the fuses .. and they was ok, and then I connected a charger to the + and - bypassed the battery and then I got light on the dashboard, so properly is the battery destroied (its old old battery). But I don`t understand what happend ?? Maybe the loose cable from the coil had connectino to the frame or something ?

My plan further is to get a new battery and soldering the cable to the coil and then start up again.
I was thinking I could remove one and one spark plug cable while the engine is running to figure witch piston who are not running?

Maybe other method is better?

Please see my pictures, is these original component? Is it possible to find some documents telling how the electrical system work and what different components perform of work/function? I think I need to understand more before I can find the problem...

When I was locking into the electrical component two of the cables falls of a component and I don't know where the two cables shall be connected ? see attached picture.

Sounds like your on the right track..... solder up that connection up and try it..... mine is opposite black wire right coil runs #1 and #4 but your model must be different. If it still sounds like they are not firing use a spray bottle with water to see if 2 and 3 are cold could be the coil or wiring else where but very well might just be the connection.......

Is that the flasher unit that came un hooked guys ?? I think it is and I think it can be hooked either way but let someone else confirm first as it is different than mine and looks to be coming apart ?

Use the water spray on the header pipe (not the block) to see which is firing.

KZB2 650 wrote: Sounds like your on the right track..... solder up that connection up and try it..... mine is opposite black wire right coil runs #1 and #4 but your model must be different. If it still sounds like they are not firing use a spray bottle with water to see if 2 and 3 are cold could be the coil or wiring else where but very well might just be the connection.......

Is that the flasher unit that came un hooked guys ?? I think it is and I think it can be hooked either way but let someone else confirm first as it is different than mine and looks to be coming apart ?

I have bought a new battery now, so lets hope I haven't damage more today....
Will fix the cable and try again. Use water on the cylinder block to see where it hot? Will no the heat transport so good in alu. so it`s hard to see it? I was thinking take out one spark plug and connect it to one and one cable to check for spark on the plug?

I will continue the work in start of next week Monday or Tuesday.

I have read about the ignition system these evening, and I understand that both coils shall have 12v when the key switch is on. The IC Igniter is sending pulses to the cable, there are there two wires to the coil, one for 12v and one for the pulses, correct? Please see attached picture, these is the IC Igniter?

I cross my fingers the bike will start when I install the new battery, nothing else was damage to day....

I try to prepare for troubleshooting:
1.
Try to figure out if the engine is running on all four cylinders or not on idle.
I don`t know 100% how I shall check these, KZB2 650 advise me to use some cold water to see where it hot? just spraying water on the block and see where its hot? but block is alu ? so heat will transport easy around the block?

2.
If I`m figure out I`m missing one cylinder, then must it be something wrong with the sparkplug cable from the coil or the IC Igniter?

3.
If the engine is going on the all four cylinders, when must it be missing some sparks "here and there" ???
and then must it also be the IC Igniter ???

4.
Can it also be something wrong with the pickup detector?

Is there a way I can test the IC Igniter? etc ??
In the service manual have they a Kawa tester where you can test the IC Igniter etc...

Can Roots to all my problem be bad battery ? hehe

I think what you pictured in your last attachment is a regulator/rectifier unit.

I think you have to clean up all your electric components, connectors, wires, plugs and connecting surfaces ( oxidations ).
Check and clean the surface of the main grounding point(s) on your frame.
A new battery (+) can not work powerful with a bad electrically conductive grounding (-).

I have spent some 4-5 hours in the workshop today.
I have not been able to start the engine today, first time ever after I bought bike, Hope I don`t have damage something.

As you can see from my previous post I have adjusted the valve cleaners and rebuild the carbs. Two times ago when I tested the bike after rejectting it suddenly start to work perfect after a hill... and last time I wouldn't go nice and I was starting looking into electrical part of the bike.

I have taken pictures and video today:
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/25042017/


1. Strange sound when try to start:
I started today checking out the strange sound I heard last time I worked on the bike, and I figure out it was these
box, capacitor? Please check the link above for picture, picture name is.
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/25042017/IMG_3899.JPG
temp.dynamitt.net/div/MC/25042017/IMG_3903.MOV

These sound is only coming when the battery voltage is to low, and the battery cannot run the start motor,
if I charge the battery it turns the start motor without any problem.

The battery was good charged these time and the start motor was going easy.

2. Pickup sensor:
I have measured the resistant in the pickup sensor
black and blue = 436 ohm
yellow and red = 431 ohm
As I understand it is these numbers good, ane the sensor shall be okay?

3. Supply voltage to Coils:
The supply to coil was 12,6Xv on both coils and 12,82 on the battery.
So that look okay?

There are coming two cables to each coil and I measured 12,6v on both against the frame/chassi, is that correct?
Is one of two cables to the coil always on and the other cable switching on and off controlled by the IC ignitor?

Sparkling:
I took out one plug and tested it against all spark plugs cables when the start engine was running and I got spark on all four cables.
I don`t know what good spark is, but for me it looks okay, it was sparking....
Can the cable or coil be bad still I have some spark? how to determine?

Valve timing:
I took of the valve cover for checking the timing, I was afraid something had happened there...
But me it looks perfect there also.... 46 pins. between the to measurement point.
You can see attached picture on the link in start of my post.

Further Process:
As I said in the start of these post, I have never have problem to start the bike and I have not done something with the carbs since it was going fine... So logical thing is that I have damage something electrical? or a bad cable had been worse after I starting moving on the cables..... Is there nothing I can do so isolate where the problem is? Must I go over all electrical components? everything ?......

I have asked for help in the electrical part of these forum, when it comes to the coil, and these results in ordering of new parts.

Dyna Dual Output 3.0 Ohm Coils (pair) DC1-1
Dyna Ignition Wires 7mm copper core (black)
Dyna Spark Plug Wire Crimping Tool

Hopefully will these solve my start and running problem.

kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/605813-testing-coils#761002